Sikkim Silk Route.

A long desired tour.

Sikkim is a beautiful state and a frequently traveled destination. Since a long time I had a desire to visit East Sikkim, specially Silk Route. Its a common itineray for Bengali travelers. Normally I travel alone, but covering this area needs personal vehicle for some part of the route which is costly for a single person. I had been waiting for an opportunity to get a suitable group. Suddenly I found an advertisement on What’s App, put up by my long time Facebook friend cum brother Rana Mukherjee who runs a small travel agency, called Parijayi Paribar, with another partner. It was a 4 nights 5 days’ package. Their offer was very much affordable. I requested him to add me in their group. Rana met an accident and got injured two days before the journey, but still he accompanied us even with so much pain and inconvenience.

We reached Howrah station and boarded Kamrup Express on 26th November 2023 and reached New Jalpaiguri Station next early morning. Two jeeps were waiting for us at the station. We were a group of 15 adults and 2 kids including Rana. There was a group of 7 with a child who took one jeep and 3 couples with one 3 years old child and I boarded another with Rana.

There was road jam at two places on the way. One was for an accident and another was for road repair work. On the way we had breakfast before Kalimpong. We reached Sileri Gaon in the afternoon. Sileri Gaon is a small hamlet at the border of Sikkim and Darjiling. Mt Kanchenjunga Range is visible from the village. Our home-stay was good. There was a view point called Ramitey View point as there was haze I did not go there. In the early morning I woke up to see sunrise. As there were several obstacle of trees for a clear view of the mountain range from our home-stay, I went a little downwards and took photographs from the balcony of another home-stay. After breakfast with puri sabji we started for Padamchen.

At Rangoli we made our permit for Sikkim Silk Route. We visited Vinayak temple at Rhenock. We reached Padamchen at around 4 PM. We were delayed time to time because the jeep with the family of 7 people were facing problem as the child was vomiting time to time. It was their first trip to mountain, probably first time in a long trip. After settling there in the home-stay we had lunch.

The home-stay at Padamchen was very good, though situated in an interior area of the village, quite away from the main road. Though Padamchen is very scenic but hardly any snow peak can be seen from there. There is a monastery, but I could not visit it as we did not have much time to spend there and due to the position of the home-stay.

Third day was a tough and hectic day. We could not start early in the morning as breakfast could not be served before 8-30 AM. We started after 9-30. There were several points to visit, that include Silk Route. They were Zuluk village, Thambi view point, Nathang Valley, Kupup Lake, Old Baba Mandir. Those places were situated above treeline, so our organizer did not plan to stay at Zuluk as we had two kids and few novice travelers in our group. Weather was mostly good and we enjoyed the beauty of the places.

As we were already late and it was impossible to reach our next destination on time for lunch, so on the way back we took a break at Keukhola falls to have some food. I ate a small pizza at Old Baba mandir in the Indian Army run restaurant, so I took some dry fruits from my own stock. It took quite long time to reach our next destination Lungchok. The road was terrible after Rangoli. Nothing could be seen after sun down. It seemed an endless journey to reach Lunchok. At around 6-30 we reached there. The home-stay was not as per our expectation. There was geyser in the bathroom and everything was clean but the rooms were smelly due to lack of ventilation.

I never had heard about that place Lungchok, nor could not see anything in the dark. After tea and pakoda I took rest for a while and searched information about the place through net. I came to know that sunrise is spectacular there on Mt Kanchenjunga. Next morning I woke up and went out of the room and found that the information was true indeed and I witnessed a colorful sunrise. I have a desire to go there again and spend few days.

Next morning after breakfast we started for Aaritar Lake. It is a medium size lake with greenery all around. There is a monastery at a little higher altitude. I had momos and a cup of tea there, after walking around the lake. Then we reached Reshikhola. We stayed at Banalata Homestay No.1. We had to went down into the gorge of Reshi river from the main road. The home-stay was situated at the bank of Reshi river. It was a serene place. The service of Banalata Home-stay No 1 was good, though a family (whom we met at Padamchen )who stayed at Banalata Home-stay No.2 complained about their service.

The whole tour went well except few incidents. On the first day at Sileri Gaon our jeep reached first. So rooms were allotted to us earlier. Later the jeep with the family of 7 reached, they complained that we were provided better rooms. So from the next day onward we allowed them to choose their rooms first. They neither appreciated nor even realized that fact.

There were several places where entry fees were needed. It was given by the organizer with the expectation that it would be repaid at the end of the tour, it was there already in the terms and condition. The family of 7 denied to pay the sum at the end.

When we were coming back to New Jalpaiguri we had to stop at a road side restaurant for lunch. There was a fresh pomelo tree ( Batabi lebu/ Jambura) at the opposite side of the highway, laden with fruits. The head of the family of 7 went suddenly crossing the highway and plucked 3/4 fruits very fast. The restaurant owner demanded price for the fruit and they refused to pay. It caused a hot argument between them. They did not have any idea that it was an offense to pluck fruits or flowers without the permission of the authority. It was resolved by the interference of another local.

In the evening we reached New Jalpaiguri. I waited at the AC waiting room and had dinner in IRCTC catering service. After that I boarded Darjiling Mail. I got a few good friends in this trip who accompanied me in the jeep. We shared our thoughts and views all along the journey and entertained each other.

Revisiting Childhood Memories.

Bengaluru, Rameshwaram and Kanyakumari

This year during Durgapuja I planned to visit my cousins’ house in Bengaluru. I thought to cover Rameshwaram and Kanyakumari too as I felt to revisit those places. I visited all three places with my father in the year 1977 when I was a school student. That was a long trip of 30 days covering several places of South India. In those days getting reservation in train was not a problem. My father got a circular ticket for the places that had railway station. It was a memorable journey and experience.

My cousins live in Bengaluru for livelihood and they have a semi Kannad son who is also my godson. I gave him his name after his birth. He demanded me to visit their place and stay for few days with him. So I thought it would be the best occasion to visit Bengaluru to escape the hustle bustle of Kolkata Durga Puja.

I started on 18th October by Howrah-SMVT Duranta Express. The service of Duranta Express was good. Food was fresh and on time. At least I did not feel any inconvenience during the journey except a group of co-passengers who were too talkative and ate a lot, from time to time, brought from their home. The train reached Bengaluru punctually.

Getting Prepaid taxi was problematic at SMVT, so I booked an Uber Taxi. I reached my cousins’ house in the evening. Next day was Sasthi. So we did not plan to eat out and stayed at home gossiping and watching cricket. In the evening we went to R T Nagar Community Durga Puja Pandel at Palace Ground. A cultural programme and a fair were being organized there. There my nephew had Qebab from the food stall and we ate sweet paan.

Next day after breakfast my nephew and I set out to explore Bengaluru. We went to Bengaluru Jama Masjid, Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace, and a temple behind the Palace. Then we took Metro to reach Kaban Park. There we visited Visvesvaraya Industrial & Technological Museum. My nephew was excited to show me the scientific gazettes and tried many switches and equipment. We had our lunch there, in the cafe at the roof top of the Museum. Bengaluru looked beautiful from there.

After that we visited Bengaluru Palace. It is a private property. We took tickets of Rs 240 per person to enter the palace. They provided audio guide. Camera is not allowed inside. It was a wonderful experience to learn about the grandeur and luxurious lifestyle in the 18th and 19th century, of the Wadiyars, the royal family of the Kingdom of Mysore. We were dead tired after that and came back by an auto.

Next day my cousins hired a car to visit Shivanasamudra falls and Talakadu river beach. We had boat ride in the river. The whole day was enjoyable and exhausting too. Next day I left Bengaluru in the evening by AC sleeper coach which started from Magestic bus stand. It was a strenuous bus journey of 14 hours. I reached Rameshwar at 9-30 in the morning. To my great disappointment, I found there was no bridge on the sea. It was just a barrage like structure on which the road was made.

It was a terrible problem to get accommodation in Rameswar. No hotel was ready to give room to a single traveler. After approaching to quite a few hotels one agreed to give accommodation taking pity on me that I have none at home, neither any close relative to take responsibility of my staying alone in Rameswaram. The room was not good as it had no window. I felt claustrophobic but I had no choice.

I visited the famous temple in the afternoon. I could not take any photo because I surrendered my mobiles to a mobile locker in front of the temple gate as they informed photography is strictly prohibited. Later I found that taking photo of the shrine and the surrounding area only is punishable. I felt overwhelmed with the magnitude of the deity and the grand architecture of the huge temple.

Next day after breakfast I went to visit Dhanuscodi. I did not see the jetty from where ships would ply to Srilanka in 1970-80. It was a ruin of an once populous town. I visited several temples. In the afternoon I went to the main temple again. Taking permission from the security person and a priest, I took few photos of corridors of the temple. In the evening I left Rameswaram by Tamilnadu Transport Corporation AC bus for Kanyakumari. Ticket was arranged by the hotel help desk taking extra service charge.

Next morning at 3 AM the bus reached Kanyakumari. From my previous experience I tried to take a lesson about lodging. So I had booked a home-stay from Rameswaram, run by an old couple there, reading review from booking.com. I tried to call them but the lady said she would call me later, but she did not and I got a confirmation email. After reaching there by an auto at around 3-15 AM, none responded. Again a search for shelter started, awaking people in the hotel receptions.

At last one agreed to give accommodation taking a contact number and address of one relative. Room was a bit costly but good, with Vivekanada Rock view from the window and balcony. The room was specious too. I agreed and slept again peacefully keeping my luggage. Next morning I got a regret letter from the home stay that they don’t allow single boarder.

In the afternoon I went to visit Vivekanada rock. There was a boat jetty. I stood in the long queue. Ticket was 70 rupees per head. Next afternoon I went to the temple and strolled in the sea side. I feel surprised that whenever I go to any crowded temple, there are always few people who take unfair way to reach the deity a little faster. One should take straight path to reach to the God, if they really think God is omnipotent, omniscient, omnipresent and just to all.

Though there was no specific part as Sangam of three oceans ( Indian Ocean, Arabian Sea, Bay Of Bengal) which had been there previously, people were taking bath at the western part of the temple. I bought a sand stone necklace and took photograph. Next early morning I caught Cape Howrah Weekly Express.

Adi Kailash, Om Parvat and Panchachulli Base Camp.

A Joint Venture

In the year 2021 I tried to plan this trip on my own. My trekker friend Angshu Dutta provided me a local contact to undertake this trip. Unfortunately for several reasons that plan did not work. First time I fell sick due to COVID and then train service was stopped due to 2nd phase of lock down, after that there was huge a land slide. My effort for this trip did not materialize and I went to Rupkund trek instead. Later I realized that it is not possible for me to do it solo.

My Rupkund trek friend Rinku Basu took initiative this time to assemble six people to undertake this trip. As soon as the group was formed, a rendezvous was arranged at Rabindra Sadan. The journey date was fixed there and we got acquainted with each other.

Where we had a road jam due to land slide

Our journey started on 1st October 2023 by Akal Takht Express. We reached Bereily at 6 AM next day and an SUV car was arranged by our local travel agent Mr. Mahesh Jung (I had his contact number since 2021) by which we reached Dharchula. As per the instruction of our team leader Bishwanath Da, I had previously booked two rooms at KMVN TRH in Dharchula where we spent the night. We had a plan to stay at Dharchula one day but due to our Prime Minister Modi’s visit to this region including Adi Kailash, we had to prepone that plan and started for Gunji next morning. Our local travel agent had already made our permit as we had sent our relevant documents, like one passport size photo, Adhar Card Xerox, vaccination certificate and medical fitness certificate.

The beginning of the journey was not quite smooth. There was a huge land slide near Tawaghat and we had to wait 5 hours on the road. Our driver Ganeshji was a leisure loving person. He was very casual in such situation. He called up a mechanic to check up the car’s engine and also provided us local guava. We could not have lunch that day except few tit-bits, brought by our friends. There was a hanging bridge at that point on Kali River. As we had ample time on hand, we ventured through the bridge and went to a small village of Nepal, getting permission from the check-post.

The road was absolutely uneven and maintenance was going on in different places for PM’s arrival. We reached Gunji at 8 o’clock at night. There were several check posts on the way where we had to show our permit. The whole area is very near to Nepal and Tibet border and full with army camps.

The Home stay at Gunji was good and we got more than we expected. The rooms were cozy. There was western toilet in the lavatory with water supply. Food was good and the home stay owner was congenial. The charge was 1500/- per person per night including food. Gunji is a beautiful village surrounded by mountain.

Next morning after breakfast we started for Jolingkong. It is the place from where holy Mt Adi Kailsh can be seen. On the way we saw Brahma Peak and Pandava peak(a series of five peaks). There are two lakes, Parvati Sarovar and Gaurikund. Pravati Sarovar is more distant than Gaurikund, the path is easier for its gradient slope but Gaurikund, though closer distance-wise, is difficult to climb with stiff and uneven stony path.

I took a pony at the cost of Rs 3K which is a fixed rate. My syce was more chatty than careful and practical. Altitude of the place is very high(15000ft) with no green at all. I was a bit reluctant to go to Gaurikund due to its difficulty level, and altitude. Specially the last 500 meters has to be covered by trekking, but the pony owner kept on insisting, even the passers by too supported him. I visited Gauri Kund. While coming down I fell from the pony and got injured severely, though thankfully none of the injuries was fatal. For this, in the rest of the tour I moved as least as possible.

The beauty of the place was wonderful and heavenly. All members completed the parikrama by 2 PM. Then we started for Gunji. On the way we visited local temple named Manokamna. We had our lunch at Gunji.

Next day early morning we started for Navidhang to witness Om Parvat. It was quite dark. Our driver Ganesh ji stopped the car at the check point but none was there. As it is a border area, security clearance is quite important there. Otherwise it may cause problem later. So we took initiative to wake up the army camp to give us permission. After crossing the first check post we reached another at Kalapani.

When we reached Navidhang, sun was rising. Om parvat was visible, though due to late season most of the snow melted, but still, “🕉” image was almost perfectly recognizable. There was Nag Parvat at the opposite which was completely bare with neither white nor green.

On our way back we spend some time at Kalapani. There is a Kalimata Temple, beside a small stream, maintained by army. It is the source of Kali River. There is a natural cave too, called Vyas Guha.

After having breakfast at the home-stay we started for Narayan Ashram which was just before Tawaghat. As usual our driver Ganesh ji was late to provide us a place for lunch. Lunch was awful. We reached Narayan Ashram just before sunset. We were provided two rooms at the extreme back end of the Ashram, each room consisted of 4 beds with attached bathroom. The total area of the ashram was quite big with few guest houses and for other activities.

Just after settling with luggage and having a shower, our leader informed that we must join the evening prayer which is mandatory there. It was a homely atmosphere. After evening prayer, the chief of the ashram introduced himself and we introduced ourselves. He told us about the tradition, activities and purpose of the Ashram. Accommodation was good and the charge for stay, including food, was 700/- per person per day.

Next morning after breakfast we started for Dantu Village. On the way Mr. Mahesh Jung was waiting to rescue us and helped us to reach there. There was a huge land slide on the way near Baling for which we had to change our vehicle and walk through the broken road. We reached Dantu late afternoon.

Dantu is a beautiful small village with the view of Panchachulli peaks. We spent two nights there at the home stay of Mr Mahesh Jung. His brother Manoj ji was a great cook. First morning was a little cloudy. All the peaks were not visible. We felt a little disheartened. Everyone of our team went to the base camp and zero point after puri vaji breakfast, while I stayed back sitting idle, baking myself under pleasant heat of sun, watching nature. Dhauli Ganga river initiated from the glacier of Panchachulli.

Next morning was very clear. Sunrise was spectacular on the peaks of Panchachulli. It looked like melted gold on the four fully visible peaks and one partly hidden peak. We all were overwhelmed as our mission was fully accomplished. After roti aloo vaji breakfast we bade good bye to all and started towards Dharchula. This time also Mahesh ji and his team helped us to cross the landslide part and to change our vehicles.

As two of our senior members decided that we should not waste time at Dharchula, instead we would proceed for Pithoragarh. They wished to visit Mayavati Ashram and Shyamlatal Ashram. Mr. Mahesh Jung arranged another car for us for three days to carry us up to Kathgodam at the cost of rupees 15K. We stayed at Nagar Kothi Hotel. The rooms were a bit shabby but their food was good. Next morning we visited Mayavati Ashram. I had visited Mayavati Ashram previously in March 2017 and stayed there for 3 days, so I worked as a guide for my company.

As our driver did not want to go back to Lohaghat for lunch and stay, so we proceeded towards Champavat. After lunch we stayed in a hotel at the outskirt of Champavat. The accommodation was good as well as their food. Champavat is a district town and has an old temple to visit. One of our team members visited the temple early in the morning. Next morning after breakfast with aloo paratha we started for Shyamlatal. Our friend Rinku denied to go there, as she found the journey very hectic. We dropped her on the road side to wait till we came back.

Baleshwar Temple, Champawat (P.C. Devjani Bose)

Shyamlatal and Vivekand Ashram was very serene and scenic. We had prasad there. On the way back we picked up Rinku and proceeded for Kathgodam. At Khatima we had our lunch. We reached Kathgodam at 4-30 PM. Our train Ranikhet Express to Delhi was at 8-30 in the evening.

The train reached Old Delhi station early in the morning at 4 AM. Rinku was always in a hurry, so she was standing in front of the door despite the warning of two GRPF stuff. Suddenly a mugger snatched her sling bag and ran away. She had her two mobiles and camera in it. A little hassle had to be faced by all for this incident. Later her bank accounts were blocked. On 11th Oct, from Delhi we took Rajdhani Express for reaching Kolkata. The trip went overall fruitful for myself.

Nepal, a comforting tour.

Nepal is a small bordering country of India where Indians don’t need passport or visa, even Aadhar Card works to go through land and Voter ID Card is enough to reach there by flight. Its a beautiful country with several spectacular travel and trekking destinations specially on Himalayas.

I went to Nepal last year in the month of May, but that tour did not give satisfaction to me. It was an incomplete feeling not to witness the magnificent peaks of Mt Annapurna, Mt Machapuchhare or Mt Everest going to Nepal.

I thought it would be better to keep Mt Everest for the next time while covering the tourist destinations centering Kathmandu but this time I planned to visit places centering Pokhara and view Mt Annapurna and Mt Machapuchhare. In my previous trip I could not visit local tourist spots of Pokhara as my companion was not interested just because she visited them before. I planned an itinerary for 13 days trip. It included Ghandruk, Dhampus and Begnas lake.

According to my plan I boarded Mithila Express from Howrah Station for Raxaul on 30th March. Elite Guest House owner Purna, in Pokhara, suggested me to come during the month of March but I could not manage earlier.

I reached Pokhara taking a bus from Birgunj. I exchanged 5000 Indian currency at border. Hundred Indian rupees is equal to hundred and sixty Nepali Rupees. They take 2% commission which is an affordable rate. Indian currency works in Nepal but not in the interior villages and small shops.

There were quite a few buses and this time my tongawala tried to mislead me to take another bus that would leave at 11-30 or later but I went to the previous bus counter and the bus left at 10-40. I reached Pokhara in the evening at 8 oclock and I took a taxi from Prithwi Chawk at 400NC (Nepali Currency) to reach Hallan Chawk, Lake side.

Purna welcomed me and this time he gave me a lake side room with balcony. I took dinner from Annapurna Bhanchha( Kitchen in Nepali). Annapurna Bhanchha at Hallan Chwak serves lunch and dinner at a quite reasonable rate. The food is good and fresh as well.

Next early morning I was very happy watching first sun rays on Himalayan Range from my hotel balcony. I went for local sight seeing package after breakfast by bus arranged by Purna at the cost of 750NC. I visited Gupteswar temple, Bindhabasini Temple, Shanti Stupa, Seti river gorge, Mahendra Gufa etc. I liked Gupteswar temple as it was situated in a unique natural cave. There was a natural water falls at the end of the cave which was Davis falls.

Next day early morning I went to Sarangkot to witness Sunrise. I missed the bus for Annapurna cable car so I took a taxi and later realized that it was a better option for me to visit the view point otherwise I would have to walk longer way and might miss the sunrise. Wide range of Mt Dhaulagiri, Mt Annapurna ( there are few peaks of Mt Annapurna range), Mt Machapuchhare, Mt Manaslu etc. was spectacular with sun-rays.

After breakfast I went to Nepal Tourist office to make my permit. Though I did not trek but Ghandruk and Dhampus were restricted area and it was safer to make permit in case I faced any natural calamity. It is the responsibility of Nepal Government to rescue a person if the person is a registered traveler.

In the evening I roamed around Phewa Lake and watched evening Aarti at the west bank of the lake. It started drizzling. I came back and had dinner.

Next morning I went to the bus stand for Ghandruk bus at 7-30 in the morning. Bus started at 8AM. It reached Ghandruk bus stand at around 11 o’clock. The village was 2/3 kilometer distant from the bus stand. I started walking with my luggage. First one kilometer was a wide soiled road with gradient slope. It was 12 noon and sun was scorching. I walked in slow pace. I realized that I had to stay at the bus stand for a while and should have taken light lunch and go to toilet instead of start walking immediately getting down from the bus. On the way I met few shepherds who were taking their donkeys and sheep. I requested one of them to carry my luggage. He agreed instead of 500NC.

After that stone staircases started. When I reached the gate of the village I felt quite uneasy due to several reasons. I sat on a stone beside the path. Someone offered me water and I washed my face with it, drank too. I was sweating profusely and feeling dizzy. The porter boy waited patiently and informed that there was a home stay very near run by one of his acquaintances. I carried my body there and decided to stay there.

The owner woman and her daughter in law both were sympathetic and congenial but the homestay had very basic amenities. After reaching there I fell asleep immediately for a while. When I woke up I felt better. I had khichri as lunch. In the afternoon I went for a walk to find how distant was the main village.

Next early morning I went to see sunrise walking a kilometer within the village. I requested a girl in a hotel named Royal View Inn to allow me to go to their roof top to take few photos. It was a good hotel at a very strategic point to witness Mt Annapurna range from a very close distance and Mt Machapuchhare too. Sunrise was extraordinarily spectacular.

I came back buying 4 bananas at 120NC from a small departmental store for my next two breakfasts. In the interior parts of Nepal food is quite costly. I had to pay 2000NC for four very simple khichri meals( lentil, rice, potato, green chilly, salt and little butter) at the homestay. If I would stay in the main village, food would be costlier. From my previous experience I carried some sugar and roasted gram flour for breakfast.

Next day early morning Sangeeta, the daughter in law of the homestay owner carried my luggage to the bus stand at 1000NC. She was a hardworking girl.

I came across many foreigners’ group at the bus stand who came back from Annapurna base camp trek. I felt envious and sad watching them. I shall never be able to go for such trek. I am too crippled for such missions now. I had a cup of tea at the bus stand. The bus started at 8AM. I had my early lunch on the way back to Pokhara.

The bus dropped me at Hari- Chwak in Pokhara from where I could get bus for Dhampus. I got a shared jeep there and reached Dhampus at around 2 PM. I found a hotel nearby “Hotel Panorama”. I got a room there at 1000NC. The hotel was clean and decent with a nice view from the window. Mt Machapuchhare seemed very close from here. Dhampus seemed a little desolate to me. Later I came to know that mostly tourists stay at Australian camp now a days. The hotel owner was a nice person, gardening was his hobby. We talked about plants and flowers.

Next early morning after breakfast with roti sabji I went to Australian camp. It was about 3 kilometer walk from my hotel. It was two kilometer from where the motorable road ended. The path had stone staircases. There were chirping of different birds, rhododendron trees and innumerable butterflies all through.

I found quite a number of foreigners and met one Korean man who was going for Mardi Himal trek. We exchanged a few words. He gave me a Japanese milk toffee which was uniquely tasty. When I reached Australian camp, haze started spreading over the mountain due to heat. I could not get very clear photos. I came down to the village. I came across a French boy who was interested in visiting Muktinath. I shared my knowledge and experience of Muktinath trip.

When I reached hotel, it was time for lunch. I enjoyed roaming around in the afternoon. There was a tasty tit-bit mixture shop, I felt tempted but could not take risk of tasting it for my weak stomach. Next day after breakfast I came back to Pokhara.

In Pokhara, I had a plan to visit Begnas Lake. I heard and read a lot about Begnas Lake and its fish. So after breakfast taking bus from lakeside bus stand I reached there. Unfortunately I did not like the smell of fish all over the area. A couple was having their pre-wedding photo shoot. I took few pictures, had a cup of tea and came back to Prithiwi Chawk where I bought a lungi at 800NC. Nepalese village women wear nice printed cotton lungi.

I took a bus next day and came back to Birganj to catch train which I found later was a wrong decision taken by me. Birganj is just a transit town and has very dull atmosphere. I wish instead of visiting Begnas Lake and coming to Birganj one day earlier I would have visited Baglung or spent a day in Chitwan. But I consoled myself thinking I have kept a reason to comeback to Nepal again.

A short trip to Pelling

Pelling is situated in South Sikkim at a strategic location on Himalayas that Kanchenjunga can be seen very close if the weather is good. It is easy but not so easy to go there by public transport. Only one bus leaves from Shiliguri SNT bus stand at 10:30 in the morning.

I felt a little stressed with my duties and responsibilities at home. So to release the stress I planned a 4/5 days short trip to Sikkim on December 2022 . When I bought tickets for 9th and 14th of December in Padatik Express and Darjiling Mail respectively, they were on waiting list that time. I thought if they would get confirmed only then I should start. At this age I can’t take much risk to go in unreserved compartment. Ultimately at the last moment the tickets were confirmed. So the journey began.

After reaching New Jalpaiguri I took a shared auto and reached Shiligulri bus stand. I was late so there was hardly any seat left. I had to sit at the end in the middle seat of the bus, but my co passengers were quite supportive and they accommodated me so that I can sit properly.

There was a person “know all” type who kept on misleading us. We had a good lunch in a road side restaurant. After that bus kept on going. After Gyalshing I got a window seat. I had no idea where to stay. So I got down at the SNT bus stand at Upper Pelling.

There was quite a number of hotels but mostly were full booked. I entered into a less crowded one, “Hotel Greenland”. It was almost empty, and workable for me. Geyser was active and the bed was clean. It was owned by a doctor couple. So I entered there. Their kitchen was not functional so I took my dinner from the restaurant just in front of the hotel.

The room had a balcony from where sunrise could be seen. So in the early morning I got up and followed through the window. As soon as the sun rays fell on the peaks I captured Kanchenjunga in my camera.

The hotel manager arranged a cab for a short local trip for me at Rs 2200. After breakfast I went to Sky-walk, Rimbik falls, Orange garden, Khechiperi Lake etc. I liked the Orange garden beside Rimbik river. It was a private enterprise. I liked Khechiperi lake too. It was full of fish. People call it wishing lake too, but I did not wish anything.

In the evening I had Bengali Chicken thali in a meal corner. Next day I wanted to spend time in a leisurely manner so I after breakfast I walked to the famous Pemayangtse Monestery and bird sanctuary, I could not find birds because it was full of tourists and their hustle bustle. When I came back it was quite late so I laid on bed for the rest of the day. In the evening I thought to have a good dinner so I entered in an apparently good looking restaurant and ordered food. Chicken curry was not good there and very spicy.

Next morning I went to Gangtok by a shared jeep arranged by the hotel. Morning was full of haze. There was overcast all day long. I boarded in a small hotel on Tibet Road with the hope to see Kanchenjunga in the morning. There I realized I forgot to take back my Adhar Card from the previous hotel. With the help of the manager of hotel Kabur Inn of Gangtok I was able to contact the owner and they later sent my Adhar Card to my address by speed post.

In the evening I strolled around the Mall and ate momo in a Tibetan Restaurant. Next morning I could not see sunrise and left Gangtok.

Pelling in December is quite cold but not unbearable cold, at least the way it seem to me. it does not snow in the winter. The place is nice for a couple of day’s stay. One can go to Yuksom, Ravangla etc with Pelling.

My First Abroad Tour.

USA Diary

My son went to USA for his higher studies in 2017. This year he invited me to visit his place as he is now capable of accommodating me for sometime. Visa appointment is a difficult issue after Covid – 19. I got appointment in June 2022 for B1 type visa. As my son and my would be daughter in law sent official invitation to attend their marriage and they sponsored my trip, so I did not face much difficulty to get the visa. Then he bought tickets for me. As it was the beginning of August, there was a huge rush of students and their parents who were going to join in different universities. It was the time for the beginning of new session. So price of the ticket was quite high. I planned to come back after Durga puja because then the price of the ticket was comparatively low. If I would come before Durga Puja the price would be too high again as the emigrants visit India in this festive season.

I went by Emirates’ flight as my son thought it would be comfortable for me as its time schedule is convenient, though there are several other air services like Qatar Airlines or Air India etc. My flight was from Kolkata to Dubai and from Dubai to Washington. The duration of the journey was divided in 2 segments, 4.5 hours and 16 hours. There was a 2 hours break at Dubai Airport. From Washington airport my son took me to Charlottesville where he stays.

I shall divide this trip into four segments: Charlottesville, North Carolina Outer banks, New York and Shenandoah National park.

Charlottesville is a small university town and a very peaceful and scenic place, surrounded by Blue Ridge mountain, which is an extended part of Appalachian Mountain. After reaching there, for a few days I found myself very drowsy and lazy. Initially my son thought it was jet lag but as it persisted for 4/5 days he became a little worried and found that my blood pressure was noticeably low. So I stopped my daily sedative and few other medicines for high blood pressure. Gradually when I got accustomed with their system of life, I started going out in the evening for a walk after early dinner. Evenings are very colorful and picturesque there. The area is sparsely populated with nice houses and lots of greenery. I tasted few new and tasty food like bagels (kind of steamed bread with different stuffings), Mezza Mediterranean bowl ( combination of salad, rice, pita bread, sauce, meat etc), Japanese food in a restaurant, Sakura.

Moon rise behind Blue Ridge mountain at Charlottesville

One day we went to Ivy creek. There were several such creeks. It is nice to walk in a sunny autumn afternoon. One afternoon we went to down town and had Dönar Kebab from a Turkish restaurant, which is a kind of flat bread with various stuffings. That day we also visited the University of Virginia and saw the famous Rotunda Building which is a UNESCO world heritage site. I learnt to go to local market gradually to buy small household requirement and I felt a little pride while doing so.

North Carolina Outer Banks

After their marriage, my son and daughter in law took leave on a week end and arranged a trip to North Carolina Outer Banks. We went there by car. We started after breakfast. We had our lunch on the way in an Italian Restaurant. My Daughter in law booked an accommodation for us through Airbnb. It was an apartment with one master bedroom with Jakuzzi bathtub in the attached bath and another bedroom with two single bed and an attached bath, a decent living room with modular kitchen and two balconies at Kill Devil Hills. It was very near to the beach. We bathed in the sea. Sunrise was spectacular in the Atlantic. There were lots of birds including sea gulls and pelicans.

We visited Wright brother’s memorial from where Orville Wright and Wilbur Wright flew their first aeroplane, Bodie Island light house, Jennette’s Pier etc. The unique thing I experienced there, was to watch baby turtles coming out from their eggs under the supervision of volunteers. Volunteers were there to protect the baby turtles. They would come at the time of sunset and would stay there till late night for the safety of baby turtles. I watched till it got absolutely dark. Any kind of light or electronic device was forbidden there, because that might distract the baby turtles and they could lose their track.

New York

Initially when my son planned for New York trip in a weekend before my return to India I was a little skeptic whether I could be able to enjoy the place as I am a nature lover and don’t like buildings, crowd, hustle bustle of the city. But after reaching New York my opinion changed. It is a huge city, perhaps I should say it is an ultimate city, after visiting it no city may seem more magnificent. Unfortunately during this time one of the deadliest hurricane Ian struck Florida. Due to it’s side effect it rained the whole week end in the Eastern coast of USA.

We went New York by train from Charlottesville. We boarded the train in the evening at 6 o’clock as the train was late and reached New York at 11 PM. My daughter-in law Annie informed that New York city does not sleep. We got down at Pennsylvania Station. From there we took a cab, the name of the Uber driver was Gurpreet who talked to us in American English and did not seem to know Hindi or Punjabi. We stayed in a small Japanese run hotel named Hotel Madison. It had a very small room with two tokonoma double bed. Normally American double beds are too huge with lots pillows and thick mattress. But in New York city everything is costly so we had to compromise with the situation.

Next day we went out in the morning with a plan for breakfast and then to roam around Time Square. It started raining heavily as we came out. I was disappointed. After waiting for an hour, when rain subsided a little we went to the nearby metro station( they call it Subway) to reach Time Square. After reaching there, my daughter in law stood in the long queue to buy tickets for Broadway Theater and by that time my son and I roamed around the nearby areas. During lunch time we went to a restaurant at the Rockefeller building. We had New York’s famous and tasty pizza. In the afternoon, we went to the Central Park. Its a huge park with lots of amusement items. Though it was not raining heavily but it was cloudy and some times drizzling.

We had early dinner in a Korean Restaurant. Then we walked towards the Broadway theater. The name of the hall was New Amsterdam Theatre where Aladdin was being played . I went there willy-nilly only because my daughter in law insisted, but I must admit that I felt flabbergasted when the show started. It was an extraordinarily amazing experience to watch such a show which was a mixture of live song, dance, magic, acting and what not, a complete entertainment, I could dare to blink my eyes so that anything I might miss. I shall advise not to miss it if one can afford to visit New York.

Next day I had branch with delicious blue berry cream cheese bagel. As my son was busy with his work, he stayed at hotel and my daughter in law escorted me to visit Grand Central Station, Empire State Building, Statue of Liberty. On our way to visit them we come to know that there was a road show on the occasion of Polish Day. We watched it for sometime at 5th Avenue. I came across an Indian boy Deepak from Delhi in the sub way who was also going to take the ferry to watch Statue of Liberty. I came to know that he had come to visit New York alone as his visa was going to expire.

My son was interested to eat Pecking duck, so we went to an authentic Chinese restaurant for dinner. Probably it was not according to my Indian taste buds so, I did not like it at all. There were other few items too like shrimp fried rice,, shrimp curry, salad, meat etc. I filled my stomach with them because I was very hungry after the day’s long walk. Their tea was really good.

As I was too tired I decided to take rest while my son and daughter in law went for a evening walk. Next morning after breakfast we went to the famous Brooklyn Bridge. As it was near our hotel, so we went by walking. It is a suspension bridge on East river and surroundings are beautiful. This long and high bridge was made in the beginning of 19th century. It connects New York and Brooklyn cities.

After coming back from Brooklyn Bridge we got ready to depart packing our bags. We reached Moynihan Hall Amtrack Lounge to catch the train for Charlottesville. My son got some food for lunch. Train was on time, we reached Charlottesville at 8 o’clock at night. An Uber Cab was called. It’s driver was Mr Muhammad Rafi, who was an Afghanistani and lived in our neighborhood at Charlottesville. He informed he could understand Hindi and speak to some extent, he learnt it by watching Hindi movies.

Shenandoah National Park

Before my return home to Kolkata there was a full moon day, so I planned to go to Shenandoah National Park to take photographs of sunset, moon rise, fall colors etc. As per our plan my son and I went to the park in the afternoon. On the way we came across few deer that were standing beside the road fearlessly. People stopped their cars to take their photos, so did I. Then we went into the center of the forest.

Trees were looking beautiful with the yellow hue of afternoon sun rays. There was a restaurant where I wanted to have a blueberry ice cream but due to the long queue I abandoned the idea and went to the sunset point. The sun gradually went down behind the Blue Ridge Mountain keeping the sky crimson colored. Then we rushed to the moon rise point but moon rose by that time above the horizon. I hurriedly clicked few photographs of the full moon. Then we came back home through the moonlit forest.

After two days I left USA and came back home. This trip not only enriched my experience but also increased my confidence. Probably I should start planning another trip to abroad by my own, may be a solo one.

Baby Turtles coming out breaking their shells

My first Nepal trip.

A bittersweet experience.

I had been planning to go to Nepal for a long time. My wish was to witness Mt. Everest and Mt. Machchhapuchhare (Mt. Fishtail ). After a long study and getting information from several sources, I made an itinerary. I wanted to start in the month of March. However, this year, due to Corona, the board exams started in late April and I had to delay my trip.

I planned it to start on 7th of May. It was a 16 days trip. I booked tickets from Howrah to Raxaul in Mithila express. I decided to return by flight from Kathmandu because I thought it would be a hassle to come back again by bus from Kathmandu to Raxaul. I also had a secret hope that the flight would go over the Himalayas, which it did not. May is the end season for Nepal tourism. After that monsoon starts. But unfortunately I found out at the last moment that there were predictions for rain and thunderstorms all over my trip. I felt a little disheartened.

I included Muktinath in my itinerary, and according to the suggestion of my friend I also kept Manang in the plan. I had a plan to go to Nagarkot and Chandragiri from Kathmandu as Mt. Everest could be seen from those places. I hoped I could see a glimpse of Mt. Machapuchhare from Sarangkot. But man proposes God disposes.

The journey started on the schedule date. From Birganj bus stand few buses ply at regular intervals in the morning for Pokhara. Our bus was at 10:30AM. I eventually met a gold merchant in the bus who was full of negativity. He informed us that there was a traffic jam and we might have to spend the whole night on the road. Thankfully it was not such a serious situation and we reached Pokhara only 5 hours late, at 10 o’clock at night. I had previously booked the hotel.

Taking a taxi from Prithwi Chawk I reached the New Elite Guest House at Hallan Chawk,. It was beside Phewa Lake. The owner Purna was a very congenial person. Due to the upcoming election there were few restrictions in Pokhara. Restaurants, shops and pubs were to be closed by 10 o’clock at night. So Purna asked me to go to any restaurant to have dinner, as their establishment was already closed.

Next morning taking a taxi we went to Sarangkot view point, to witness the sunrise. The peaks could not be seen properly as it was partly cloudy. I took snaps of Pokhara. As I had a plan to go to Muktinath and Manang for which we had to get a permit from the Nepal Tourist Board. The first half of the day was spent in doing that. I wanted to go Manokamna temple, but it ended up into a fiasco. I was traveling with an acquaintance who was not interested in visiting Devis Falls, and other scenic places because she had already visited them. So we did not go anywhere except the lake at Pokhara. I consoled myself traveling Sarangkot by cable car arranged by our hotel owner.

Normally I travel alone. This time on request of an acquaintance, I took her with me. I had met her previously at Pathornachuni on my Rupkund trip. She also did a short Uttarakhand trip with another of my acquaintances in the month of February. She said that she traveled and trekked quite a few places in the Himalayas, and she was an ex-employee of Indian Railway, and she had got the job through sports quota. I thought she could be a good companion. I felt completely duped when I started traveling with her. She was neither a passionate traveler nor was she physically and mentally fit for taking the strain of traveling through a self organized tour. Realizing my mistake, I decided to keep patience and enjoy as much as possible in that situation.

After spending two days at Pokhara we caught a bus at 7 in the morning for Jomsom. On the bus I was delighted to meet a French lady who had been staying in Nepal for 14 years and adopted Buddhism. She spoke Nepali fluently and knew every nook and corner of Nepal’s trekking destinations. I felt envious of her. We reached Jomsom in the afternoon. We met a German trekker who also wished to go to Muktinath that day. So he took initiative to arrange a jeep, which we shared. We reached Muktinath when the sun was setting behind Mt. Dhaulagiri and Mt. Tukuche.

Gangapurna Peak, glacier and lake. Manang.

Muktinath was quite cold. The name of the hotel at Muktinath where we lodged was Norling. Food was tasty and good. It was near the bus stand. We slept early. Next day after 7 o’clock in the morning we started for Muktinath. My travel companion bathed in the twin kunds and 64 dharas and offered puja. It was actually her prime objective to come to Nepal with me. I offered puja and witnessed the holy deity. I felt blessed to visit there.

Next day was election day. No vehicles would be available. So after coming down from the temple I went to the bus stand to know the bus time to reach Jomsom. I wanted to spend one day at Jomsom and visit Dumba Lake there. But when I went there I came to know that no bus was plying on that day for Jomsom. I had to hire a taxi in a hurry, otherwise we could get stuck at Muktinath for the next day also. Going to Pokhara from Muktinath would take two/three hours longer than Jomsom. And also I was interested in spending one day at Jomsom.

We stayed in a hotel near Jomsom bus stand called the Muktinath Hotel. Jomsom is a scenic place with the view of Mt Nilgiri and Mt Dhaulagiri, Kaligandaki river and apple orchards. Next day being the election day most shops remained closed. Nepal armed forces were patrolling on the roads. We visited the serene Dumba lake after lunch. It was hardly 3/4 kilometer from the center of the small town. The lake is considered sacred by the Buddhists. I lost my camera lens cap while coming back from Dumba lake.

Next day we caught a bus in the morning and reached Pokhara in the afternoon. It started raining after we arrived. Our hotel owner Purna had booked our bus ticket for Besishahar. Spending one night in Pokhara we started for Besishahar at 7 o’clock in the morning and reached at 11 am. There we had our lunch and started for Manang.

Bagmati river, Pashupati nath Temple, Kathmandu.

Many treks start from Manang. It is a district of Nepal. There are small villages like Dharapani, Chame, Pisang, Braga, Tanki Manang, Khangsar, etc. Every village has its own beauty with snow peaks, Marsyangdi river, and innumerable water falls. Thorang La pass trek, Tilicho lake trek, Khangsar kang peak expedition etc. start from here. Mt. Gangapuna, Mt. Annapurna, Mt. Tilicho, Mt. Khangsar Kang, Mt. Manaslu peaks can be seen from here.

We reached Manang at 10 o’clock at night. Here I want to mention that going to Manang needs a lot of physical and mental strength, and traveling to Manang is quite expensive. It is not a cup of tea for an amateur traveler who travels for comfort and leisure. My Manang traveling experience is another story. *****

Spending two nights at Manang we came down to Besishahar. Here I realized that most Indian ATM cards do not work in Nepal and Bhutan. It was a disaster for me. Next day with the help of our driver and hotel owner we got two seats in the micro-bus for Kathmandu. After reaching Kathmandu we boarded in a hotel at Gangabu, where the bus dropped us. Gangabu is a convenient place and there are many budget hotels for locals, though not for tourists. Tourist area is Thamel.

Knowing my problem of lack of funds, the hotel owner helped me. My son sent him money through IME and he delivered me the cash. I shall remain ever grateful to him. I abandoned my plan for Chandragiri and Nagarkot due to my travel companion’s disinterest. We visited Pashupatinath temple, Swayambhunath temple, Patan (Darbar square), Bhaironath and Bhaktapur Darbar square in three days. We caught our flight for Kolkata from Kathmandu. My hopes to witness Mt. Everest and Mt. Machapuchhare remained unfulfilled this time. Maybe I shall visit Nepal again. But that will surely be a solo trip.

*****

Manang, an experience.

Manang, an experience.

_{A pristine district of Nepal}

Manang is a district of Nepal from where many trek routes start. When I was planning for a Nepal trip one of my trekker friends suggested to visit there. I asked him if one can go there by vehicle because I can not trek due to my health issues. I searched Google and YouTube and got a little information about Manang. But in those videos and articles none discussed the cost and the problems. It may be the cause that very few people go there and mostly they go in groups. They are mostly trekkers, so are strong in every way. It is a popular destination for foreigners who do not bother about expenses because 1 US $ is equal to 123 NC or 1 Euro is equal to 132 NC whereas 5 Indian rupees is equal to 8 Nepali rupees. It is a restricted and natural calamity prone area, so a permit (TIMS Nepal) is required to go there. The permit costs 1000+600 Nepali currency.

We took a bus from Pokhara to Besishahar at 7 o’clock in the morning. My companion was eternally irritating by nature. She has different health problems. It was a 4 hours bus journey and the bus did not stop for a break. She suddenly started shouting that she needed to go to the toilet. After shouting a few times, the bus stopped at a suitable place and she released herself. I felt a little embarrassed because it was against my culture and one should have control over oneself for hunger, thirst and other issues while undertaking a journey specially of this kind. There were few young foreigners from Europe who came in different groups from different parts of Europe. There was a solo female traveler too from Germany. All young.

When the bus dropped us at Besishahar, it was around 11-30 AM. We got down from the bus and had our lunch. After lunch I started searching for a vehicle to reach Manang. They asked for 5000 NC. means 3,129 IC. I was a little shocked, I had no idea that the cost of going to Manang would be so high. I could not check through Google because my Nepali SIM did not have mobile data. BTW, in Nepal most of the hotels provide free WiFi connection.

My friend got agitated suspecting that they were looting us. She asked me to bargain and I inquired of to the locals what the true price was, they informed me that it was 2500 NC for locals. I argued with a pick-up van driver and he agreed to take us at 2500 NC ( He was going to Chame, I did not know that the whole area is called Manang which is a district of Nepal and our destination point was Tanki Manang.).

When we started, the river Marsyangdi was accompanying us. It was a cloudy day and drizzling from time to time. On the way a couple from Tamilnadu joined us. The road was extremely rugged, the vehicle was swinging like a seesaw, but the view was extraordinary. We had a tea break at a beautiful view point where there was a large falls. After that there were three check posts where our permits were checked. The vehicle was carrying loads which it dropped at several assigned places.

At Chame it cleared all its cargo and the passengers, except us. He announced that he would not go farther. I was surprised because I was quite sure that it was not the place that my friend had described to me. I firmly told the driver that it was not Manang which we wanted to go for. To solve the dispute the driver took us to the tourist police who intervened and made us understand that we had to pay at least another 1500 NC for going to that particular place from there and he arranged another vehicle which luckily arrived at that time with two vacant seats, and we started again.

It was dark by that time. Outside nothing could be seen. My friend who was by nature always skeptical, started shouting at me that she had made a great mistake coming with me, exhausting herself physically, mentally and financially. She doubted that these people could kill us and throw our bodies into Marsyangdi. None would be able to trace us. I was already upset and tolerating her tantrums on different issues since the beginning of the journey, lost patience and threatened her that when she had come with me she had to endure things till we catch our flight.

When the car reached Tanki Manang it was 10PM. The village was sleeping. The moon was peeping through the clouds. Luckily our driver previously had informed a hotel nearby jeep stand to arrange dinner for all 6 passengers that he was carrying including himself. My friend was so ill mentally and physically that she was unable to stand properly; the driver and another person carried her and her luggage. She was hungry, scared and tired. She slept on the sofa of the dining hall. She could not eat properly and was out of breath. I kept myself calm and served her like a typical manager of a travel agency. She met me on a place during Rupkund trek, she informed us that she had done a few treks, it was unexpected to me that she proved herself so vulnerable in every way all through the tour. I lost my water bottle in the jeep during this chaos.

Next day was a sunny day. My friend was happy to see the natural beauty of the place and did a volte face as if nothing serious had happened previous night. Together we went to Gangapurna lake, watched Gangapuna peak and glacier and strolled in the village. Food was very costly. Even two fried eggs cost 320 NC. The name of the hotel was Hotel Yeti where we stayed. It was convenient for us due to its proximity to the jeep stand. We inquired about the jeep time and the rent after lunch. It was 4000 NC for going down to Besishahar. During dinner my friend asked for a green chilly. The manager of the hotel laughed and said he had not seen green chilly for a month. Instead he offered her chilly pickles.

Tanki Manang is a beautiful village with many snow peaks of Himalayas like Mt Annapurnas, Mt Gangapurna, Mt Tilicho, Mt Khangsar Kang etc. It is situated above 11,500ft/3500 meters from sea level. River Mansyangdi is flowing through the valley. Though arid by nature there are many apple orchards. The apples that grow here are of a different type. Many trek starts from here.

In the afternoon we went nowhere because my friend was neither hardy nor a travel freak, she loved binge watching on her phone most of the time or sleeping. I was also lacking enthusiasm after a few altercation from the beginning of the tour and was waiting for the end. Next morning we woke up early and I reached the jeep stand before 6-30 AM as per instruction of the driver. My friend reached there at 5-45 in the morning. When my friend went to the toilet she found my water bottle in the office cum tea shop at the jeep stand. I was happy to get it back. Ultimately the jeep started at 8AM. Then it stopped at Braga and Pisang to pick up local passengers. Both were small beautiful villages.

At Chame we had breakfast break. Jery (Jalebi) Puri of Chame is famous in Manang. When we went upward we could see nothing as it was cloudy. This time I looked around at Chame, a beautiful village. Manaslu peak was visible from there. From Dharapani the whole Manaslu range was visible, but I had to capture it only on my mobile as I lost my camera lens cap at Jomsom, I had to keep the camera under packing for its safety. We reached Besishahar in the afternoon, nearly at 4 o’clock and boarded in a hotel with the help of our jeep driver. Next day we reached Kathmandu.

An Unachievable Achievement

Rudranath & Madmaheshwar

“Rudranath ki Chadhai jayse Germany ki Ladhai(The ascent of Rudranath is as difficult as the battle with Germany)” that is what said by the owner of Hariyali Resort of Saggar village when I came down from Rudranath extremely exhausted.

I came back from my Kumayun trip 15 days ago and was tired. But there was Durga Puja. I don’t like to stay at home alone in this festive season due to several reasons. So I again packed my rucksack and started for Uttrakhand.

One of my Facebook friends with whom I traveled to Roopkund informed me that ponies are available on the way to Rudranath. My confidence level was high after visiting Roopkund, so I made up my mind to try it.

Once I wished to complete Panch Kedar (Five Kedars, Rudranath, Tungnath, Madmaheshwar, Kedarnath and Kalpeshwar). But when I resumed my travel after a long gap I discarded Rudranath from the list because of it’s difficulty level and my health issues.

When I heard that ponies were available on that path then my desire was rekindled and I decided to go there. I gathered information about the route. Madmaheshwar was always in my bucket list and I thought that if I get time I should also try go to Kedarnath again because I went there with my father long ago.

After reaching Haridwar I lodged in a hotel near the bus stand. Next morning I tried to go to Chamoli by shared jeep but due to lack of passengers it did not start and the driver asked me to go by bus. I boarded in a bus which was almost full at that time. As I did not want to sit in the rear side of the bus, the bus conductor arranged my seat in the cabin.

The bus started and we had brunch at Teendhara. After that, the bus kept on receiving passengers till it was packed. We reached Srinagar where some passengers got down and new passengers boarded. Then it started again. After crossing Dhrari Devi temple the car broke down at an odd point.

Somehow I Managed a shared jeep to reach Karan Prayag from there. From Karan Prayag I got another shared jeep to reach Chamoli. As I was tired with this journey I booked a full car from Chamoli to go to Saggar village. It dropped me in front of Hariyali Resort.

The resort was more decent than expected in that remote area. Next early morning they arranged my pony. We started at 7 in the morning. Initially the path seemed not too difficult till Poong Bugiyal but later it became very rough and steep. The stony staircases were uneven and high. After crossing Mauli Kharak my syce Nitin informed that I had to trek this path while coming down. It was about 3/4 km. But it was too late to withdraw.

The path was very dangerous, risky and breath taking. But when I reached Panar Bugiyal I forgot all my problems because one can witness 180 drgree view of Himalayan range from there with many peaks. Then came Pitradhar and PanchGanga Bugiyal. I had to get down from the pony twice as it was risky to cover those parts by pony. 22 kilometer of such dangerous path seemed too long to me. We at last reached Rudranath (11,811ft) at about 2 PM. From Rudranath also one can witness several peaks of Himalayas.

Food and accommodation at Rudranath was absolutely nominal. Being a single person I had to share room with other people. There was scarcity of water. One should carry Zeoline for purifying drinking water. In the evening we went to the temple for watching puja and evening aarti. Some people offered the deity whatever they carried to offer there.

I was extremely tired though I felt overwhelmed with gratitude that Rudranath brought me in such difficult and remote place. Night was decently cold but the room was cozy, although the quilt they provided was full of dust. I carried sleeping bag from Kolkata but my syce and my hotel owner at Sagar dissuaded me to carry it to Rudranath. I felt the need of it there at night.

Morning was beautiful. We started early after morning tea for Saggar. Going down seemed more difficult to me. It was an ordeal to sit on the back of the pony. Even for a singe moment I could not feel relaxed. We had Breakfast at Leuty Bugiyal at Kishen Singh Bist’s dhaba. He arranged my stay at Sagar and Nitin, my syce, was his son. Then came the most difficult part. I had to walk that very dangerous, difficult, uneven, stony and slippery path where every step should be taken cautiously. When I became completely exhausted I found my syce Nitin and my pony. He took me to Poong bugiyal where we had our lunch. Then we came back to Sagar in the afternoon.

As I drank less water in fear of stomach problem and the area was dry and arid due to lack of vegetation, my nose bled. My whole body was aching with terrible pain. After reaching Sagar I drank lots of water and bathed properly and took early dinner and slept. After a 12 hours sleep when I woke up next morning at 7 I felt that I could move for Madmaheshwar.

After breakfast a car was arranged to drop me at Chamoli. As soon as I got down from the car I saw a bus of UK Roadways. I boarded on it which dropped me at Rudrapayag, from where I got a shared jeep for Ukhimath. From Ukhimath I sat on another jeep for Ransi. Those who travel in group or can afford a car they don’t need to take so much pain. They can go straight from Sagar to Ukhimath or Ransi. It is about 60/65 km from there.

Ransi is the starting point to trek for Madmaheshwar. I stayed at Komal tourist point. This hotel had only the very basic amenities. Its owner arranged a pony for me whose owner’s name was Narottam. I met a monk, and his two disciples in the jeep at Ukhimath who came to Ransi with me. They also stayed at Ransi. Next morning Narottam took me to Madmaheshwar on his pony.

The road was though not as difficult as Rudranath, but it was quite difficult, as the road was steadily declining up to Gondar, then there was steady ascent. At some places it was quite steep though there was a proper paved path. We had breakfast at Bantoli. But I forgot to pay there. Narottam relieved me saying that I could pay while returning.

I reached Madmaheshwar at around 1Pm. I got accommodation with the same monk and his two disciples. My stay was a bliss at Madmaheshwar with them. The monk was from Tehri Garhwal, and one of his disciples was an entrepreneur of Shimla, and the other was a boy from Pangi( Himachal Pradesh). They could climb hill as easily as lizards. They did Panch Kedar at a stretch and all by foot.

In the evening I saw the deity and aarti. After that we had early dinner with roti and kadu(pumpkin) ki sabji. Next early morning was for Buda Madmaheshwar expedition. Mt. Chaukhamba seemed at a stone throw distance from there according to the opinion of Maharaj. After breakfast I started with Narottam. We had lunch at Bantoli. I did not forget to pay this time. There I came across a couple who were from AgastMuni. Hearing about my desire to go to Kedarnath they offered me lift up to Kund(where the road from Ransi met another road for Sonprayag) on their car. After reaching the end point of the trek I boarded their car and I got a bus immediately after reaching Kund.

Madhuganga and ramdana on the way to Madmaheshwar

When the bus crossed Guptakashi traffic jam started. The bus advanced very slowly. At one point the jam became stagnant. After an hour or two the bus conductor came to me and requested me to return as I was alone and aged. He said, I could face problem if the bus reached Sonprayag at night. I realized what he advised was true. He helped me to get my luggage and I came down from the bus and took another bus from the opposite side to reach Guptakashi. I spent the night in a hotel at the bus stand. I decided to go back to Rishikesh.

I got the news of extreme chaos in Kedarnath due to the rush of pilgrims next day. As there was a long holiday of Navratri, Dashera, Saturday, Sunday, many people from nearby places came in their car and there were many youngsters, who were inspired by the movie Kedarnath, came in groups. I thought it would be wise not to move upward anymore.

Next day I came down to Rishishikesh, but it took much longer time than usual as there was again a traffic jam after Tindhara. It started raining at night and red alert was declared by Uttarakhand government as heavy rainfall was predicted. It rained continuously next day. In the next morning I found that the greenish blue water of Ganga changed into mud colour and the water was rushing ferociously down with branches of trees and other things. I heard about many mishaps on the hills and felt blessed that I came down safely.

Next day morning after breakfast I came to Haridwar. I bought peda(sweets made by drying milk) for home and ate malai samosa and boarded on train at midnight.

Traveling beyond dream

MY ROOPKUND TRIP

Mt. Chaukhamba, in the morning from Almora.

I neither planned nor thought even in my wildest dream to attempt for Rupkunda. I did not consider myself to fit to go there. Probably it was the desire of destiny that I visited that heavenly place or I should say it appeared in front of my eyes to oblige me.

It thus happened that my scheduled plan to visit an interior part of Kumayun (Uttarakhand) was cancelled due to heavy rain and land slide. My local guide informed me that when my RT-PCR negative report was in my hand and my bags were packed. Just before three/four days of my departure one of my Facebook friends asked me if I was interested in going Roopkund. I declined her saying it was beyond my physical capacity and I had another plan too.

Suddenly I recalled her offer and called her immediately to tell that I would like to join them. My friend gave me the contact number of the travel guides who were going to arrange the trek. They were two/ three local young boys of 25/30 years ( Uttarakhand Tour Planner). I talked to them and they informed that they had no problem accommodating me if I could reach Wan village on 18th evening. Their package was from Wan to Wan village(19th to 23rd September,2021). They also guided me how to reach Wan through Kumayun.

My ticket was in Durgiana Express up to Bareily from Kolkata station on 14th September. So I visited Almora, Kausani and reached Gowaldam via Baijnath. I spent one day in each of these places.

From Gowaldam I went to Thalarali by bus. Then I took shared jeep to reach Dewal. From Dewal I went to Lohajung by another shared jeep. I had to wait about two hours at Lohajung to get a conveyance for Wan village. I reached Wan by someone’s car taking a lift instead of 150 rupees when the sun was about to set.

In the evening my friend and her two companions arrived from Dehradoon. We were very much excited. Next morning after breakfast we started our journey. Our first lap was up to Gairolipatal (10,000 ft app.)

Roopkund is a difficult trek. On the first day we covered about 5/6 kilometer steep path through beautiful forest, streams and we crossed Neel Ganga. Gairolipatal was a small place with two trekkers’ huts and one small shack of the local forester who served us tea also.

Our tent was pitched for that night. We got one trekkers’ hut to cook our food . It was a full moon night but we could hardly see the moonlit peaks due to cloud. It rained all night. In the morning Mt. Trishul peeped through the cloud for sometime though we missed the sunrise.

During the second day it was a long journey to cover 10/12 kilometers. After early breakfast we started. Our cook Mohan was an expert to cook tasty food with meager ingredients. We covered the forest and reached above tree lines. On the way we crossed eye alluring Bedini Bugiyal. There were many unknown plants that enhanced the beauty of the path. There were shepherds who brought there herds of sheep for grazing on the bugiyals(grassland).

We reached Pathornachuni( 12,700 ft) by 2 o’clock. Here we could not get trekkers’ hut. So a kitchen tent was pitched and hot lunch was served. It was drizzling. We took shelter in our tents. In the evening we enjoyed pakora and tea. Night was pretty cold. But our organizers provided us good tents and cosy sleeping bags that we slept very well.

Next morning the distance we had to cover was not quite long but very tough due to steep and difficult trail. When I reached Kalu Vinayak, Lal Singh, an enthusiastic boy, brother of one of our organizers, told me to ask whatever I want from Kalu Vinayak. I was already so much overwhelmed that I lost words. One of our team mates Mrs. Pratima Mandal( MP/ TMC party) broke into tears out of joy.

We reached our last Destination Bhaguabasa (14,000 ft). On the way we found lots of Brahmakamal with other high altitude plants. It was extremely cold and dark after sunset. Here we managed one trekkers’ hut with the initiative of Kartik, one of our team members. He reached early and occupied one. Being a Garhwali boy he could walk fast on the mountain and he was young too.

Next day was a vital day. We started before dawn. The organizers gave us an escort to each of our four members so that we could walk in the difficult way to Roopkund. The trail was not only steep but also in some places there was no path at all. One had to cover it balancing on the body. The beauty of pristine Himalayas was indescribable and mesmerizing.

My friend Rinku Basu and her uncle were the steadiest and experienced trekkers among us. I was the most crippled one and my escort Dikpal Singh Danu was a very patient one to give me encouragement on that difficult path. Pratima was the tenacious one who never gave up.

Roopkund is a small mountainous lake on 15,570 ft altitude. Due to cloudy weather no peak was visible from there. Only the historical skeletons, the small temple of Shiv-Parvati and the Kund was seeable. Coming down was also not an easy task. It started raining in the mean time. We came back at noon time and had our lunch and again started our down ward journey for Pathornachuni. We stayed there at night. Though it rained heavily, our crew members did not neglect in any way to serve us.

Early morning view, on the way to Rupkund

Our guide Heeraji was an expert in his field. He told us mythical stories of Pathornachuni and Roopkund. He guided us as a professional so that we did not get succumbed to Acute Mountain Sickness or other ailments. Sometimes he carried me like a trolley bag so that I did not fall on the slippery slope. Rain accompanied us till Wan village.

Roopkund ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roopkund )

Next day we left Wan village by a jeep arranged by our organizers. It dropped me at Tharali and went to Hrishikesh with Rinku, her uncle and Pratima. They dropped me at Tharali as my ticket was from Lalkuan. I came back via Goaldam and Nainital.

N.B. One who never traveled and spent night above 10,000 ft should not attempt this trek. It is not a pleasure trip in anyway. Only very basic requirements can be provided. One has to use toilet tent or manage in open air and use toilet paper to clean up oneself because of the scarcity of water. It is very cold. So those who can not endure cold also discouraged to go.