Adi Kailash, Om Parvat and Panchachulli Base Camp.

A Joint Venture

In the year 2021 I tried to plan this trip on my own. My trekker friend Angshu Dutta provided me a local contact to undertake this trip. Unfortunately for several reasons that plan did not work. First time I fell sick due to COVID and then train service was stopped due to 2nd phase of lock down, after that there was huge a land slide. My effort for this trip did not materialize and I went to Rupkund trek instead. Later I realized that it is not possible for me to do it solo.

My Rupkund trek friend Rinku Basu took initiative this time to assemble six people to undertake this trip. As soon as the group was formed, a rendezvous was arranged at Rabindra Sadan. The journey date was fixed there and we got acquainted with each other.

Where we had a road jam due to land slide

Our journey started on 1st October 2023 by Akal Takht Express. We reached Bereily at 6 AM next day and an SUV car was arranged by our local travel agent Mr. Mahesh Jung (I had his contact number since 2021) by which we reached Dharchula. As per the instruction of our team leader Bishwanath Da, I had previously booked two rooms at KMVN TRH in Dharchula where we spent the night. We had a plan to stay at Dharchula one day but due to our Prime Minister Modi’s visit to this region including Adi Kailash, we had to prepone that plan and started for Gunji next morning. Our local travel agent had already made our permit as we had sent our relevant documents, like one passport size photo, Adhar Card Xerox, vaccination certificate and medical fitness certificate.

The beginning of the journey was not quite smooth. There was a huge land slide near Tawaghat and we had to wait 5 hours on the road. Our driver Ganeshji was a leisure loving person. He was very casual in such situation. He called up a mechanic to check up the car’s engine and also provided us local guava. We could not have lunch that day except few tit-bits, brought by our friends. There was a hanging bridge at that point on Kali River. As we had ample time on hand, we ventured through the bridge and went to a small village of Nepal, getting permission from the check-post.

The road was absolutely uneven and maintenance was going on in different places for PM’s arrival. We reached Gunji at 8 o’clock at night. There were several check posts on the way where we had to show our permit. The whole area is very near to Nepal and Tibet border and full with army camps.

The Home stay at Gunji was good and we got more than we expected. The rooms were cozy. There was western toilet in the lavatory with water supply. Food was good and the home stay owner was congenial. The charge was 1500/- per person per night including food. Gunji is a beautiful village surrounded by mountain.

Next morning after breakfast we started for Jolingkong. It is the place from where holy Mt Adi Kailsh can be seen. On the way we saw Brahma Peak and Pandava peak(a series of five peaks). There are two lakes, Parvati Sarovar and Gaurikund. Pravati Sarovar is more distant than Gaurikund, the path is easier for its gradient slope but Gaurikund, though closer distance-wise, is difficult to climb with stiff and uneven stony path.

I took a pony at the cost of Rs 3K which is a fixed rate. My syce was more chatty than careful and practical. Altitude of the place is very high(15000ft) with no green at all. I was a bit reluctant to go to Gaurikund due to its difficulty level, and altitude. Specially the last 500 meters has to be covered by trekking, but the pony owner kept on insisting, even the passers by too supported him. I visited Gauri Kund. While coming down I fell from the pony and got injured severely, though thankfully none of the injuries was fatal. For this, in the rest of the tour I moved as least as possible.

The beauty of the place was wonderful and heavenly. All members completed the parikrama by 2 PM. Then we started for Gunji. On the way we visited local temple named Manokamna. We had our lunch at Gunji.

Next day early morning we started for Navidhang to witness Om Parvat. It was quite dark. Our driver Ganesh ji stopped the car at the check point but none was there. As it is a border area, security clearance is quite important there. Otherwise it may cause problem later. So we took initiative to wake up the army camp to give us permission. After crossing the first check post we reached another at Kalapani.

When we reached Navidhang, sun was rising. Om parvat was visible, though due to late season most of the snow melted, but still, “🕉” image was almost perfectly recognizable. There was Nag Parvat at the opposite which was completely bare with neither white nor green.

On our way back we spend some time at Kalapani. There is a Kalimata Temple, beside a small stream, maintained by army. It is the source of Kali River. There is a natural cave too, called Vyas Guha.

After having breakfast at the home-stay we started for Narayan Ashram which was just before Tawaghat. As usual our driver Ganesh ji was late to provide us a place for lunch. Lunch was awful. We reached Narayan Ashram just before sunset. We were provided two rooms at the extreme back end of the Ashram, each room consisted of 4 beds with attached bathroom. The total area of the ashram was quite big with few guest houses and for other activities.

Just after settling with luggage and having a shower, our leader informed that we must join the evening prayer which is mandatory there. It was a homely atmosphere. After evening prayer, the chief of the ashram introduced himself and we introduced ourselves. He told us about the tradition, activities and purpose of the Ashram. Accommodation was good and the charge for stay, including food, was 700/- per person per day.

Next morning after breakfast we started for Dantu Village. On the way Mr. Mahesh Jung was waiting to rescue us and helped us to reach there. There was a huge land slide on the way near Baling for which we had to change our vehicle and walk through the broken road. We reached Dantu late afternoon.

Dantu is a beautiful small village with the view of Panchachulli peaks. We spent two nights there at the home stay of Mr Mahesh Jung. His brother Manoj ji was a great cook. First morning was a little cloudy. All the peaks were not visible. We felt a little disheartened. Everyone of our team went to the base camp and zero point after puri vaji breakfast, while I stayed back sitting idle, baking myself under pleasant heat of sun, watching nature. Dhauli Ganga river initiated from the glacier of Panchachulli.

Next morning was very clear. Sunrise was spectacular on the peaks of Panchachulli. It looked like melted gold on the four fully visible peaks and one partly hidden peak. We all were overwhelmed as our mission was fully accomplished. After roti aloo vaji breakfast we bade good bye to all and started towards Dharchula. This time also Mahesh ji and his team helped us to cross the landslide part and to change our vehicles.

As two of our senior members decided that we should not waste time at Dharchula, instead we would proceed for Pithoragarh. They wished to visit Mayavati Ashram and Shyamlatal Ashram. Mr. Mahesh Jung arranged another car for us for three days to carry us up to Kathgodam at the cost of rupees 15K. We stayed at Nagar Kothi Hotel. The rooms were a bit shabby but their food was good. Next morning we visited Mayavati Ashram. I had visited Mayavati Ashram previously in March 2017 and stayed there for 3 days, so I worked as a guide for my company.

As our driver did not want to go back to Lohaghat for lunch and stay, so we proceeded towards Champavat. After lunch we stayed in a hotel at the outskirt of Champavat. The accommodation was good as well as their food. Champavat is a district town and has an old temple to visit. One of our team members visited the temple early in the morning. Next morning after breakfast with aloo paratha we started for Shyamlatal. Our friend Rinku denied to go there, as she found the journey very hectic. We dropped her on the road side to wait till we came back.

Baleshwar Temple, Champawat (P.C. Devjani Bose)

Shyamlatal and Vivekand Ashram was very serene and scenic. We had prasad there. On the way back we picked up Rinku and proceeded for Kathgodam. At Khatima we had our lunch. We reached Kathgodam at 4-30 PM. Our train Ranikhet Express to Delhi was at 8-30 in the evening.

The train reached Old Delhi station early in the morning at 4 AM. Rinku was always in a hurry, so she was standing in front of the door despite the warning of two GRPF stuff. Suddenly a mugger snatched her sling bag and ran away. She had her two mobiles and camera in it. A little hassle had to be faced by all for this incident. Later her bank accounts were blocked. On 11th Oct, from Delhi we took Rajdhani Express for reaching Kolkata. The trip went overall fruitful for myself.

My itinerary (Uttarakhand)

Kumayun

Kolkata – Lalkuyan – Tanakpur – Mayavati- Patal Bhubaneshwar- Munshiyari – Almora- Nainital – Kathgogam – Lucknow- Kolkata .

Kumayun is famous for its natural beauty and attracts tourists from different parts of India. One can see many peaks and ranges of Himalayas from many tourist destinations of Kumayun like Chaukori, Almorah, Kaushani etc. Mayavati and Almorah were the places I planned to go with my father many years ago. My father traveled Mayavati, Almora, Ranikhet, Kaushani, Nainital etc twice with my mother but unfortunately I could not join them. It was a long desired trip that I planned in 2017 March. I preferred Lalkuan Express than Kathgodam Express because it took less time though it was a weekly train.

I did not have any idea that to reach Tanakpur , Berily was the better option to get down from the train than Lalkuan. Buses ply in regular intervals from Berily to Tanakpur. When I was telling someone of my co passengers about my itinerary before reaching Lalkuan, the two TTE were doing some work in the next cabin of the train. They overheard the discussion and called me : ” Come here Madam. Sit here . You want to go to Tanakpur from Lalkuan? You are alone ? Why didn’t you get down at Berily? ” I expressed my ignorance. One of them suggested me to go to Haldwani Bus stand to get the bus for Tanakpur. Another passenger from the next cabin became interested and came to advise me. He was a local. He instructed me to go to Kichha by a tempo auto from where I could get the bus for Tanakpur. When I reached Kichchha bus stand I came to know the bus for Tanakpur would leave late. They asked me to go to Khatima and take another bus from Khatima for Tanakpur.

Khatima was a transit where two roads met and crossed each other. After getting down at Khatima I stood in front of a shop according to the direction of the conductor of the bus. A person was standing there. Seeing me with my rucksack, he asked me where I was going. When he knew my destination he informed that he was also going to Tanakpur and ordered me to follow him. He caught a car which was going back after dropping someone in Lalkuan, and I went with him. He directed the driver to drop me in front of KMVN guest house and asked me to pay the driver 30 rupees. I reached Tanakpur at 12-30 PM.

At Tanakpur I visited Punyagiri Mata temple which was 3+3 km trek from the jeep-stand, where the shared jeep dropped me. I visied the temple. The view of Kaligandaki was spectacular from the top. Next day I went to Lohaghat by a shared Alto which dropped me at Mayavati Ashram after dropping other passengers at Lohaghat for extra 200 rupees. Staying 2 nights in Mayavati Ashram was a unique experience. A local school teacher who was at that time staying there advised me to take bus for Gangolihat from Lohaghat and then to take a taxi for Patal Bhubneshwar would be convenient for me to reach there. I had accommodation previously booked in KMVN guest house at Patal Bhubneshwar.

Patal Bhubneshwar is a natural cave in the under-surface of the mountain. There are different formation of stalactite and stalagmite within the cave. It is said that there are many such caves in that region and many mythological stories are related with them. From Patal Bhubneshwar I wanted to go to Munshiyari. But in Kumayun local bus service or shared jeeps were not available everywhere like Garhwal. So I paid the same taxi driver to take me to Raiyagarh, a nearby transit town next morning. From Raiyagarh I went to Berinag by a shared jeep. From Berinaag a person who was going to Thal, a larger transit town, by his own car, gave me a lift instead of Rupees 100. Later I realized that this kind of service was common there because of the lack of public transport. Those who own cars give lifts in their cars while going to their work places and take few bucks instead, which is helpful for both parties. From Thal I got a shared jeep, and reached Munshiyari in the afternoon at 4 O’clock. There also I stayed in KMVN guest house. Munshiyari is a spectacular place with Panchachulli peaks visible from everywhere. I stayed there 2 nights and visited Nanda Devi temple, Maheshwari kund and Thamri kund. KMVN manager arranged my shared car to go to Almorah.

Almorah is a large and famous town in Kumayun. I stayed in R K Mission guest house being a member of Ramakrishna Mission disciples family. It is located at one end of the town called Bright End Corner. Maharaj arranged a car for me to visit Goludevta temple, Kasar Devi temple and Sarada Math near Kasar Devi temple. While coming back in the afternoon from Golu Devta temple I asked the driver how could I get a bus for Nainital next morning. He informed me that the morning bus would pass through Bright End Corner at 6 AM. He would inform the driver to pick me up. The next morning the bus came and picked me up for Nainital. At Nainital I stayed at KMVN guest house. I had to hire a car here also for local sight seeing. I did paragliding too here. It was a memorable moment of my life.

I went to Kathgodam by local bus from where I caught train. As Kathgodam Express was too slow and did not have pantry car so I preferred to make a break journey. I got down in Lucknow, stayed there one day, visited Bhulbhulaiya, Bada and Chota Imambara, British residency and museum, ate Galawati kebab and biriyani, bought few Lucknow chikon kurtis and caught Kumbh Express next day and reached Howrah.

Mayavati, an abode of serenity.

I had a strong desire to visit Mayavati ashram since a long time. My father visited the place twice and had unique experiences. I missed the chance to accompany him because of my personal problems. My family is influenced by the ideals of Lord Ramakrishna and were initiated into R K Mission. I am also not an exception. As soon as I planned to visit Kumayun I included Mayavati in my itinerary. To go and stay at Mayavati one needs to get permission from Advaita Ashrama ( Entally, Kolkata ) which is a wing of R K Mission.

I went to kolkata branch of Advaita Ashrama. Initially Maharaj, who is the assigned in charge of booking, was hesitant to give permission to a solo female traveler for stay and tried to dissuade me. After a long argument when the in charge was convinced that I am quite determined to visit the place he informed me about the procedure to book accommodation.

When I got down from Lalkuan express I came to know that the best way to go there is through Berily( UP ), but it was too late to mend. I felt puzzled for some time. Few locals rescued me by giving information. At last I reached Mayavati on time via Tanakpur and Lohaghat.

It had been a unique experience staying there. It was pretty cold in March after a thundershower. Within 3 kilometer periphery of Mayavati there is no village, only forest, leopards are often seen there. We were instructed not to walk alone. The guest house is half a kilometer walk from the ashram. One has to walk 4 kilometers daily up and down to have breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. The ashram is self sufficient, they produce food crops, vegetables and there is also a dairy farm. They run a charitable hospital where local people come for free treatment. Normally guests are not allowed to stay there more than 3 nights but doctors are allowed to stay more on condition that they have to give voluntary service in the hospital.

Punyagiri ( Tanakpur)

It was 12 o’clock at noon when I reached Tanakpur. Tanakpur is a small transit town in the foot hill of Kumayun Himalayas. I went there for going to Mayavati Ashram. I had booking for a night stay at KMVN tourist rest house. As I lodged there and asked for afternoon meal, they said it was not possible for them to provide food without previous notice. They informed that the market area was not far away from the place and it would cost 20 rupees by tuktuk to go there where I could get lunch . So I hired a tuktuk, and reached the market area where there were few places for lunch. After having lunch I started inquiring about the places of importance there.

I heard that there is a famous temple called Punyagiri or Purnagiri. I wished to visit there and got a shared jeep for that purpose. After a long wait it filled up and started. When it reached in front of the temple gate the sky was covered with thick cloud. The taxi driver told me that he would go back as soon as he got required number of passengers, and there was no hope for next taxi. I came to know that Holi was celebrated there with great grandeur and a fair was organized during that time. The preparation was full on for the festival. I started walking, after few minutes I realized if I went to the top of the hill where the temple was, it would take at least 3 hours to come back. It was almost 3 km uphill trek. I decided to return because if I could not come back in time I would be in great trouble. As I turned I found the taxi driver standing there, I told him why I planned to return. He was very enthusiastic and devoted, he said he would accompany me, so that I would not miss the taxi, he forced me to visit the temple. It was a tedious walk for me, I felt tired, but he was persistent.

When I reached the last phase it started raining, but that part of the stairs was covered with tin shade. I reached the temple. I feel blessed, it was a beautiful sight of the Kaligandaki river that I witnessed from the temple. When I came down it was raining cats and dogs. The driver started his jeep. Lots of people were waiting under different shelters. As soon as he started they rushed into the jeep.

N.B. From Lalkuan I took auto-rickshaw to reach Kichchha. From Kichchha bus stand I took a local bus by which I went to Khatima. From Khatima I got a shared taxi which dropped me in front of the KMVN guest house at Tanakpur. Buses ply in regular intervals from Berily to Tanakpur.