In the year 1982 I heard about Valley of Flowers and Manimahesh. We came across a middle aged woman on our Kedarnath trip, who had been traveling alone for years, which was considered an exceptional event in those days. She said, “No one is alone in Himalayas.” She had many experiences which she shared with us. My mother asked her, “Which is the most beautiful and which is the most difficult destination according to your opinion?” She replied that Valley of flowers and Manimahesh respectively.
So after completing my Valley of Flowers trip I was trying to get information about Manimahesh. One of my travel freak Facebook friends advised me to go there during the time of mela which takes place in August or September every year between Janmastami and Radhastami. Otherwise its difficult to get food and shelter at night. I managed to fulfill my wish in 2017.
Gourikund
From Pathankot I reached Chamba by bus in the evening. From Chamba buses ply to Bharmor. There were special buses for pilgrims till late night during mela period. I stayed one night at Chamba in a hotel near old bus stand ( there were quite a few hotels near old Bus stand) and one night at Bharmor HPTDC tourist lodge and visited Bharmani Devi temple.
Next early morning I started for Manimahesh by bus. I reached Hadsar which was the starting point of the trek for Manimahesh at around 9-30 AM. Ponies were also available during mela but the route was very steep at some places, so one has to get down and walk from time to time in different places according to the instruction of the syce.
Gate at Hudsar.
I started walking from the gate, there were few stair cases, and after that there was the trekking trail. I ate breakfast at a Voluntary Service Medical Center. They were very congenial and helpful who provided me ORS, and gave first-aid for my scratches on face. One of them informed me that the MANI of Manimahseh could be seen only at night and on previous day it was seen at 3 AM. So I should keep myself cautious at night, and as it was too cold, he suggested me to take a tent that faced the holy mountain so that I did not need to come out to witness that unique phenomenon.
After walking one and half kilometer I took a pony. Those who trek till the end has to take breaks for food and repose at two points, one is Dhancho and another is Sundarasi. Some people stay at Gaurikund too.
Mt Manimahesh
The path was difficult but beautiful. Iravati or Ravi river accompanied all along the way. Ravi river initiates from this region. Some people were bathing in this river. There were several Langars (free food centers) at places. They were organized mostly by the Punjabi or Sikh people. They were generous and did not discriminate people by religion as I had seen in my Amarnath trip. My pony owner and I took our lunch in a langar. Food was very good and fresh.
I reached Gaurikund at 4 pm, many people halted there for night stay, but I decided to go up to Shivkund and visit Gaurikund on my way back. Reaching Shivkund, I hired a mountain facing tent with blankets, sharing with another person at the cost of 600 rupees, The mountain was covered with mist, I felt very disappointed. After dinner I came back to tent and tried to take rest. I realized that it was difficult to sleep not only for cold weather but also for a discomfort to stay at an altitude of 4,080 meters ( 13,390 ft ).
After a long time when had I fallen asleep I did not know, suddenly there was an uproar of “Jai Bhole” which awoke me up. I opened the tent flap and saw the Mani ( the jewel ) on Mt Manimahesh. It was a unique phenomenon. The crescent moon appeared on the peak in such a way that it seemed like a diamond. The sky was absolutely clear. Gradually the crescent moon rose up, innumerable stars and constellations were clearly visible. It was a surreal feeling to be there. Suddenly I saw a shooting star. Tears came in my eyes and I thought there was nothing that I could ask God to gift me. I never thought my long wish for visiting Manimahesh would be fulfilled in such a way.
Shivkund
Next day I started early morning for Hudsar and visited Parvati Kund on the way. I reached Hudsar at around 11 AM. From there I went to Kugti Village by shared jeep.
N.B. To reach Manimahesh one has to reach Chamba( Himachal Pradesh ). Buses ply from Chamba to Bharmor and Hudsar. From Hudsar it is almost 18 kilometer steep uphill trekking. Ponies are available during mela which takes place from Janmastami to Radhastami ( August/ September). Langars are set up only during this period and tents are also available for night stay.
Hanuman Chatti is on the way to Yamunotri, one of the pilgrimages of Chardham of Uttarakhand. It had been the last motor-able point, from where the trek would start for Yamunotri, until when the road did not extend up to Janki Chatti. It is also the starting point for Dodital and Darwa Top trek. It is situated at the confluence of Hanuman Ganga and Yamuna river.
I was late to book accommodation at Janki Chatti GMVN Tourist lodge. I preferred to stay in Government run tourist rest houses in my initial days of solo traveling. I had to book the TRH at Hanuman Chatti. Since road has been extended to Janki Chatti, it has lost its previous importance. I came down to Hanuman Chatti, from Janki Chatti, after visiting Yamunotri temple.
It was afternoon and the GMVN rest house was in the gorge of Yamuna which was quite a down hill walk from the main road. None was there. I entered and saw a person who requested me to wait as he was going to inform the caretaker. The caretaker came, he was a morose person, checked all my documents, and allotted a room. The flush of the toilet and the bathroom light were not working, he smiled ashamedly and repaired them with quick efficiency. He asked if I wanted dinner, I said that 2 roti and any vegetable would work for me. There was no mobile network. He informed that as the rest house was in the deep gorge, so to get network I have to go to the main road. I went up, messaged my son and called at home to inform about my night halt. Then I visited Hanuman Mandir and had a cup of tea and snacks from a roadside tea stall.
Confluence of Hanuman Ganga and Yamuna
At 8 o’clock in the evening the caretaker called me in the dining hall and served roti and Aloo-tomatar. It was tasty and healthy with less spices and oil, I was very hungry. After having dinner I told him that the vegetable was very tasty and at the same time healthy. His eyes flushed with satisfaction. It seemed that he had been working for long there. He saw the glorious past of that tourist rest house when it had been always filled up and on great demand. Presently he was the only employee there. I left the rest house in the next early morning.
LAKSHADWEEP: A memorable journey on a cruise ship.
Lakshadweep is a tropical archipelago consisting of 36 small islands and coral reefs in the Arabian sea, near the coast of Kerala. All islands are not inhabited, and only a few are open to visitors (permits required). Kavaratti, is the capital of the islands. Malayalm is the common language there.
A central government organization named SPORTS (https://www.lakshadweeptourism.com) organizes tour packages for tourists by cruise ship. This trips covers Kalpeni, Kavaratti, and Minicoy islands. One can also arrange individually, visiting there by flight, from Cochin, making permit from their office. There is an airport in the island called Agatti. Bangaram is the island where there are arrangements for staying in home stays and for adventure sports.
Lake Vembanad
Introduction.
When I was in the final year of school in 1979, we went to Andaman islands. After coming back from there I told my father that we should also visit Lakshadweep. In 1980 there was not enough information available about Lakshadweep and probably tourism had not been promoted in that area. So the plan was abandoned.
In my initial days of self planned tours, I joined two travel forums to get information. There I came across a post about Lakshadweep trip and got the link of SPORTS. I became interested and started planning the trip.
November to February are the best months to go there. In winter sea remains calm. As Lakshadweep is situated near to equator and in the middle of the sea, the weather is temperate during this period.
Kalpeni light house
The dilemma
I booked a trip for me son and I through the local agents of SPORTS in Kolkata. It was in December 2011. I went to their office and booked a package called “Samudram” commencing on 22nd December from Kochi. We booked our train and return air ticket as per schedule.
But they called me and informed due to certain problem that particular package was cancelled. Either they would refund or we might join another package. We agreed and cancelled our previous ticket and arranged tickets according to the new schedule.
Again after few days the local agent informed that the tour has been preponed by 4 days. I did not change the return ticket, instead I only changed my out ward journey ticket.
I thought it would be better not to cancel the return air ticket, instead we should enjoy the rest four days traveling in Kerala, though we were going over budget.
Beds in the room.
The tour starts
We reached Kochi/Cochin via Chennai by Aleppi Express. In our few hours stay in Chennai we visited Marina beach and some other places too.
After reaching Kochi we lodged in a hotel near to Ernakulam Station. Keeping our luggage there we first went to the SPORTS office to get the confirmation and to do the rest process to board the ship next day. The officials of SPORTS checked our documents and money receipt. Then they asked us to report next day 3 hours before the commencement of the journey.
Kalpeni
Kochi local trip
After coming back to the hotel we bathed and had our lunch. Inquiring at the help desk of the hotel we came to know there were small boat trips in the afternoon to visit Kochi city. According to their instruction we reached that boat jetty at Vembanad Lake and reserved our tickets.
The boat started at 3 PM. Vembanad Lake is the largest lake in India. There were many house boats in the lake. Flying fish were often seen on our journey. The lake was full of different birds. I was absolutely novice in photography in those days. So I could not capture good photos of them.
Synagogue at Kochin
We visited St Francis Church, Synagogue in Jew town, Sree Poornathrayesa Temple, Cochi International Marina, Fort Kochi, etc.
In the evening we went to the local market where beautiful gold plated jewelries were sold. I bought two small ear rings and they still haven’t lost there color. We tasted local cuisine of Kerala. Next morning after breakfast we reached the specified place of SPORTS at Wiilingdon Island.
Corals from glass bottomed boat
Boarding the ship M V Kavaratti.
It was really an experience to go through the Customs checking before boarding the ship. Alcohol was strictly banned in Lakshadweep. A group of eight young fellows from Kolkata was there. One of them was carrying a large bottle of deodorant so that all of them can use it. He had to unpack his luggage to show that.
At that time no foreigners were allowed. I was suspected as an intruder because, though I was not so fair, but fairer than average Indians and also my haircut was under suspicion. After showing all documents we got clearance.
There were a large number of natives of the islands who were also on board with us. Now a days rules have changed a lot. I have come to know that foreigners are now allowed to visit Lakshadweep.
MV Kavaratti was a large ship. It had 5 floors and terrace. There was a helipad on the top deck. There was also a small swimming pool though no water was there. We were in the first class. There, each room had accommodation for two persons. After our boarding a small tug boat drew the ship into the ocean from the port.
Dining hall of the ship
The journey begins
After boarding the lunch was served. The large dining hall was divided into two parts. One for vegetarians, another for non vegetarians. The ship started moving slowly. In the evening different hue in the sky and its reflection on sea was a spectacular scene. Gradually when the night approached, I had an eerie feeling watching the endless dark where the ship was moving like an island.
After dinner I slept but my son did not want to sleep. He preferred to roam around the nook and corners of the ship. He was extremely happy. We did not feel any kind of sea sickness during our whole journey neither our fellow travelers.
Kalpeni
Next day I woke up at 4 AM. It was completely dark. I went out of the room and stood on the small balcony like deck beside our room. The ship was not moving. It anchored near Kalpeni. Small lights of Kalpeni was visible. There was only sound of the waves that struck the body of the ship.
I came back to my room and slept again. In the morning after morning tea/coffee we were carried to the island of Kalpeni by small boats. There green coconuts were served as welcome drink. After that we went for snorkeling and kayaking to another small island by boat.
Relaxation time at Kalpeni
Those who knew swimming snorkeled on their own and those who could not, SPORTS attendants helped them to see the variety of corals under the water. There were sea cucumbers in plenty and other creatures visible under the clear sea water. There were lots of corals everywhere lying here and there.
At noon we came back to the main island of Kalpeni and had our bath in fresh water. There lunch was arranged and served. After that there was a program of local tribal dance. Children enjoyed swinging in the hammocks. We all rested and chatted with each other introducing ourselves.
Kavaratti
In the evening we were taken back to the ship and the ship started to move. At midnight the ship reached Kavaratti and anchored. In the morning after tea/coffee we were taken to Kavaratti island. Kavaratti is the biggest island of the archipelago.
In Kavaratti, after breakfast, we had several activities arranged by SPORTS. We had a ride on glass bottom boat. It was an overwhelming experience to watch colorful fish and variety of colorful corals.
Kavaratti boat jetty
There was an arrangement for scuba diving also. My son went for scuba but at that time I did not get the courage to go for scuba for which I still regret.
We visited Marine aquariam and musium. There were different types shells and water animals and marine flora displayed for the tourist.
We had lunch with different fish items. There was also provision for vegetarians but that was meager in comparison to the non vegetarians. After lunch rooms were given to us for those who wanted to take rest.
In the afternoon we were taken to a local hosiery factory where we sold T-shirts printed ‘Lakshadweep’ and its photograph. I bought three T-shirts for my son.
Then we were taken to pickle factory outlet. Many of us bought Tuna pickle. It was very tasty, made of Tuna fish, lime, and spices.
Kalpeni
Experience of eating Tuna fish and sea weed desert
At night we were served fish curry in dinner along with other preparations. We could not recognize the fish while eating. But later a co-passenger informed us that they came back to the ship by the last boat and that fish came with them. It was a huge fish more than 4 feet long. There was also a desert made of sea weeds. It was like corn flour halwa without any color.
Sunset at Arabian sea.
Minikoy
Next day we reached Minikoy. Minikoy is the southernmost island of Lakshadweep. It seemed to me the most polpulous of them. This island has a very rich historical background.
We enjoyed Lava dance there. There were lagoons and tourists huts were made on the water. Here also we were taken by sea boat to see different types of corals. This island also had arrangements for different tourist activities. Some people enjoyed kayaking.
The natural beauty of the island was mesmerizing and I enjoyed sitting idle in front of the sea beach watching the different shades of blue and sea green. Many of us enjoyed bathing in the sea. Here also there was a large Tuna canning factory.
There was a package called Swaying Palm that only covers Minikoy. It seemed to me a very good package for honeymooners. There is a tourist cottage with few rooms for those who book that package.
Minicoy Seabeach
Back to the main land
The trip was about to end next day. We spent long time on the deck after dinner. The ship moved towards main land. Four days past like moments. Our scheduled arrival was at 10-30/11 AM, but the ship was late due to weather condition. She had to move against the wind and could not move in stipulated speed. So we were served our lunch. At last the ship reached the port at 1-30 PM.
The captain and the other members of the cruise were very congenial. The captain came and attended to us personally. He requested us to come again like other hosts of a family. My son and I enjoyed the trip extremely, and wish to go again when we shall have sufficient resources. The trip was expensive for middle class people like us.
How to go Lakshadweep
If someone wishes to go, I would suggest to book trips through the agents of SPORTS because it is more convenient and if the trip is cancelled it is easier to get a refund. The package starts from Kochin ( Kerala). There are different kind of packages.
One can arrange the trip on their own but it will be costlier than SPORTS packages. One has to get permit also as it is a restricted area.
My parents and I went to Amritsar in July 1983 on our way back from Kashmir trip. We reached in the evening and stayed in a hotel near the railway station. In the morning after breakfast we went to visit Golden Temple. We entered into the temple through the main gate crossing the stream of water which was made for the purpose of washing the feet of the pilgrims. After entering we waited few minutes to think from which way we should approach the temple as it was a huge area to cover. It was a sunny morning, we found an old man had been talking to few young college going boys. As soon as he saw us he came to us leaving those guys behind and introduced himself as an honorary guide who gives service to the temple on Sundays. He guided us all through the time we spent there.
We had “Halwa” prasad in the temple, reached the top floor of the temple, then he made my mother and me to do “Kar Seva”, then we went to the huge Langar where we had daal and roti. One roti and one ladle of daal was more than enough for our Bengali stomach of three. When we were giving a round within the temple we saw many half underground closed rooms and many men with brain gun and stain gun moving around. My mother asked what was there in the rooms and my father inquired of why were people with weapons present within the Temple premises. The man replied that those were store rooms of the temple and the Sikhs believe in Vakti and Shakti (devotion and power) together, that was why they were carrying weapons. Then the old man saw us off till we boarded on a Tonga, after taking us to the temple book shop where my parents bought some books and memoirs. From there we went to the infamous Jalianwala Baag .
After several months, on June 1984 there was operation BLUE STAR. It revealed that, there were lots of visitors along with few foreigners, they were kept imprisoned naked in the half underground rooms of the temple, who were rescued by the army after confrontation. We then realized and felt grateful to that old man. My mother called him an angel who saved us from being captured. We all know that as an aftermath of this decision Mrs Indira Gandhi was assassinated on 31st October 1984.
Gaumukh does not need any introduction. It is the source point of our sacred river Ganges. there are lots of mythological stories about its source and initiating form Himalayas. It wasin my bucket list
I reached Gangotri at 1-30 PM after waiting from 6-30 to 10 AM with few young stars in Uttarkashi until the shared jeep filled up. As I was walking towards GMVN guest house, a man came to me. He introduced himself as a guide. Initially I hesitated and refused saying that I had to hire a pony because I was unable to walk 15 km and the syce would guide me, but he persisted on following me saying that he would carry my luggage as well as arrange my pony and permit, and one has to walk on feet after Bhojobasa, so syce would never go to accompany me till the snout point. After a long bargain I agreed at the cost of Rs 1000, I said to him to leave me at Bhojobasa after visiting Gaumukh. He made my permit in the evening and booked a pony. He said he would come next morning at 6 o’clock.
Mt Shivling
I started in the morning at 6 AM, I rode the pony. After going for a while the pony denied to go ahead and turned backward. It seemed that she was unwilling to carry me. Somehow the syce and the guide made her going on the way. Then I came to know that the pony was a very young one and the syce was a new one. This is his first trip on the way to Bhojobasa. The guide said that there was nothing to worry because he was quite acquainted with the region. But I had not been comfortable on the back of the pony and had a feeling that my seat was moving. The syce said to me not to get afraid and stick on to the seat. Then suddenly the saddle tilted completely and I fell from the pony where the path was hardly 3 feet wide and river gorge was straight 200 metres deep beside the path. Suddenly the guide came, as I was slipping down under the horse, he caught my legs and saved me from falling. I was terribly scared, he asked to rest, then I walked about one and half kilometer, after that I somehow reached Bhojobasa on the back of the pony.
Bharal or Himalayan goat
I talked to the guide while walking on the way to Gaumukh. He informed that he has 2 children, wife and parents in a village of Nepal which was completely devastated due to the earthquake of 2015. Previous day he had no money that is why he was so persistent. I agreed to pay him for another day and also to provide his food. I asked him to accompany till I return to Gangotri. It was a beautiful experience to see the snout point and coming back. I stayed that night at GMVN rest house at Bhojobasa and came back next day by another pony which was well trained as well as it’s syce.
Gangotri glacier
N.B. To reach Gangotri one can catch bus directly from Hariwar or reach Uttarkashi by shared jeep or bus from Haridwar to break a long road journey. Till Bhojobasa, which is 10 kilometer from Gangotri, pony is available for those who can not walk so long, but after Bhojobasa it is now 5/6 kilometer trek. At Bhojobasa there are very few accommodations for stay.
It was 1976. I had been traveling through South India for weeks with my parents. We visited Rameshwaram during that trip and there were several other places in our itinerary. We reached early at the railway station for the next destination. We had circular tickets which is probably not available now a days. The train was on the platform, we boarded and settled with our luggage. There was about 2/3 hours left for the scheduled departure. In those days there was neither so much rush of people nor trains. There were many steam engines still working. I was roaming on the platform. I found a food shop owner on the platform who was loudly reviling a foreigner in his native language. The foreigner wore soggy torn out clothes. During that period there were lots of hippies found in India. So I thought there might be some misunderstandings between the shopkeeper and the foreigner. I asked him what happened. He informed that the foreigner often begs for bread. It is not possible for him to help him gratis regularly. I inquired to the foreigner and come to know that he had been swindled by a local guy and lost everything except his passport. He somehow managed to contact one of his acquaintances in Srilanka to inform to his house and expecting to be rescued within few days. I gave him 10 rupees from my meager savings and bought a large bread and gave him. He glanced at me thankfully.
I came back to the compartment and narrated the incident to my mother. She did not scold me, rather appreciated me. I still remembered that guy, if he had been able to reach his own country. By the way, he was an Australian.
Benediction 