I had never heard about Sarkanda devi before I reached Dhanaulti. I went to Dhanaulti from Chamba via Tehri Dam. On the way to Dhanaulti I saw a place where there were few shops on the highway, cars and motorcycles were also standing there. It seemed that there was a temple. I asked the driver, he informed that there was a famous temple of Devi Sarkanda on the hill top, which was two and half kilometer uphill walk from that place. I reached Dhanaulti and lodged in a hotel. After having a sumptuous lunch with chicken after a long vegetarian diet, I asked the hotelier about the temple. He arranged a local shared jeep which ply regularly taking the teachers of the local government run school from Dhanaulti to Chamba. The jeep dropped me at the same place which I had seen while coming.
I started walking. I found few people walking down who said that they could not reach because it was too long a walk. I was in full confidence after coming down from Gaumukh, so I continued. There were steps and railings. I got tired after sometime and thought that I should not go forward. I sat on a rock beside a rhododendron tree. A boy and a girl came up, sat beside me to take rest, they were friends, one from Hyderabad, another from Mumbai. They came to Mussoorie for trekking. I told them that I had given up and thinking of going down. The boy said, “I will take you.” I objected saying that I can not walk fast, specially uphill. He took me up holding my hands and I reached the top and visited the shrine. I felt blessed. According to Indian mythology Sarkanda Devi temple is a Shakti pith where head ( sar ) of Sati had fallen during Dakhayagna.
N.B. Sarkanda devi is on the way to Dhanaulti from Chamba or Mussoorie
In the year 1982 I heard about Valley of Flowers and Manimahesh. We came across a middle aged woman on our Kedarnath trip, who had been traveling alone for years, which was considered an exceptional event in those days. She said, “No one is alone in Himalayas.” She had many experiences which she shared with us. My mother asked her, “Which is the most beautiful and which is the most difficult destination according to your opinion?” She replied that Valley of flowers and Manimahesh respectively.
So after completing my Valley of Flowers trip I was trying to get information about Manimahesh. One of my travel freak Facebook friends advised me to go there during the time of mela which takes place in August or September every year between Janmastami and Radhastami. Otherwise its difficult to get food and shelter at night. I managed to fulfill my wish in 2017.
Gourikund
From Pathankot I reached Chamba by bus in the evening. From Chamba buses ply to Bharmor. There were special buses for pilgrims till late night during mela period. I stayed one night at Chamba in a hotel near old bus stand ( there were quite a few hotels near old Bus stand) and one night at Bharmor HPTDC tourist lodge and visited Bharmani Devi temple.
Next early morning I started for Manimahesh by bus. I reached Hadsar which was the starting point of the trek for Manimahesh at around 9-30 AM. Ponies were also available during mela but the route was very steep at some places, so one has to get down and walk from time to time in different places according to the instruction of the syce.
Gate at Hudsar.
I started walking from the gate, there were few stair cases, and after that there was the trekking trail. I ate breakfast at a Voluntary Service Medical Center. They were very congenial and helpful who provided me ORS, and gave first-aid for my scratches on face. One of them informed me that the MANI of Manimahseh could be seen only at night and on previous day it was seen at 3 AM. So I should keep myself cautious at night, and as it was too cold, he suggested me to take a tent that faced the holy mountain so that I did not need to come out to witness that unique phenomenon.
After walking one and half kilometer I took a pony. Those who trek till the end has to take breaks for food and repose at two points, one is Dhancho and another is Sundarasi. Some people stay at Gaurikund too.
Mt Manimahesh
The path was difficult but beautiful. Iravati or Ravi river accompanied all along the way. Ravi river initiates from this region. Some people were bathing in this river. There were several Langars (free food centers) at places. They were organized mostly by the Punjabi or Sikh people. They were generous and did not discriminate people by religion as I had seen in my Amarnath trip. My pony owner and I took our lunch in a langar. Food was very good and fresh.
I reached Gaurikund at 4 pm, many people halted there for night stay, but I decided to go up to Shivkund and visit Gaurikund on my way back. Reaching Shivkund, I hired a mountain facing tent with blankets, sharing with another person at the cost of 600 rupees, The mountain was covered with mist, I felt very disappointed. After dinner I came back to tent and tried to take rest. I realized that it was difficult to sleep not only for cold weather but also for a discomfort to stay at an altitude of 4,080 meters ( 13,390 ft ).
After a long time when had I fallen asleep I did not know, suddenly there was an uproar of “Jai Bhole” which awoke me up. I opened the tent flap and saw the Mani ( the jewel ) on Mt Manimahesh. It was a unique phenomenon. The crescent moon appeared on the peak in such a way that it seemed like a diamond. The sky was absolutely clear. Gradually the crescent moon rose up, innumerable stars and constellations were clearly visible. It was a surreal feeling to be there. Suddenly I saw a shooting star. Tears came in my eyes and I thought there was nothing that I could ask God to gift me. I never thought my long wish for visiting Manimahesh would be fulfilled in such a way.
Shivkund
Next day I started early morning for Hudsar and visited Parvati Kund on the way. I reached Hudsar at around 11 AM. From there I went to Kugti Village by shared jeep.
N.B. To reach Manimahesh one has to reach Chamba( Himachal Pradesh ). Buses ply from Chamba to Bharmor and Hudsar. From Hudsar it is almost 18 kilometer steep uphill trekking. Ponies are available during mela which takes place from Janmastami to Radhastami ( August/ September). Langars are set up only during this period and tents are also available for night stay.
LAKSHADWEEP: A memorable journey on a cruise ship.
Lakshadweep is a tropical archipelago consisting of 36 small islands and coral reefs in the Arabian sea, near the coast of Kerala. All islands are not inhabited, and only a few are open to visitors (permits required). Kavaratti, is the capital of the islands. Malayalm is the common language there.
A central government organization named SPORTS (https://www.lakshadweeptourism.com) organizes tour packages for tourists by cruise ship. This trips covers Kalpeni, Kavaratti, and Minicoy islands. One can also arrange individually, visiting there by flight, from Cochin, making permit from their office. There is an airport in the island called Agatti. Bangaram is the island where there are arrangements for staying in home stays and for adventure sports.
Lake Vembanad
Introduction.
When I was in the final year of school in 1979, we went to Andaman islands. After coming back from there I told my father that we should also visit Lakshadweep. In 1980 there was not enough information available about Lakshadweep and probably tourism had not been promoted in that area. So the plan was abandoned.
In my initial days of self planned tours, I joined two travel forums to get information. There I came across a post about Lakshadweep trip and got the link of SPORTS. I became interested and started planning the trip.
November to February are the best months to go there. In winter sea remains calm. As Lakshadweep is situated near to equator and in the middle of the sea, the weather is temperate during this period.
Kalpeni light house
The dilemma
I booked a trip for me son and I through the local agents of SPORTS in Kolkata. It was in December 2011. I went to their office and booked a package called “Samudram” commencing on 22nd December from Kochi. We booked our train and return air ticket as per schedule.
But they called me and informed due to certain problem that particular package was cancelled. Either they would refund or we might join another package. We agreed and cancelled our previous ticket and arranged tickets according to the new schedule.
Again after few days the local agent informed that the tour has been preponed by 4 days. I did not change the return ticket, instead I only changed my out ward journey ticket.
I thought it would be better not to cancel the return air ticket, instead we should enjoy the rest four days traveling in Kerala, though we were going over budget.
Beds in the room.
The tour starts
We reached Kochi/Cochin via Chennai by Aleppi Express. In our few hours stay in Chennai we visited Marina beach and some other places too.
After reaching Kochi we lodged in a hotel near to Ernakulam Station. Keeping our luggage there we first went to the SPORTS office to get the confirmation and to do the rest process to board the ship next day. The officials of SPORTS checked our documents and money receipt. Then they asked us to report next day 3 hours before the commencement of the journey.
Kalpeni
Kochi local trip
After coming back to the hotel we bathed and had our lunch. Inquiring at the help desk of the hotel we came to know there were small boat trips in the afternoon to visit Kochi city. According to their instruction we reached that boat jetty at Vembanad Lake and reserved our tickets.
The boat started at 3 PM. Vembanad Lake is the largest lake in India. There were many house boats in the lake. Flying fish were often seen on our journey. The lake was full of different birds. I was absolutely novice in photography in those days. So I could not capture good photos of them.
Synagogue at Kochin
We visited St Francis Church, Synagogue in Jew town, Sree Poornathrayesa Temple, Cochi International Marina, Fort Kochi, etc.
In the evening we went to the local market where beautiful gold plated jewelries were sold. I bought two small ear rings and they still haven’t lost there color. We tasted local cuisine of Kerala. Next morning after breakfast we reached the specified place of SPORTS at Wiilingdon Island.
Corals from glass bottomed boat
Boarding the ship M V Kavaratti.
It was really an experience to go through the Customs checking before boarding the ship. Alcohol was strictly banned in Lakshadweep. A group of eight young fellows from Kolkata was there. One of them was carrying a large bottle of deodorant so that all of them can use it. He had to unpack his luggage to show that.
At that time no foreigners were allowed. I was suspected as an intruder because, though I was not so fair, but fairer than average Indians and also my haircut was under suspicion. After showing all documents we got clearance.
There were a large number of natives of the islands who were also on board with us. Now a days rules have changed a lot. I have come to know that foreigners are now allowed to visit Lakshadweep.
MV Kavaratti was a large ship. It had 5 floors and terrace. There was a helipad on the top deck. There was also a small swimming pool though no water was there. We were in the first class. There, each room had accommodation for two persons. After our boarding a small tug boat drew the ship into the ocean from the port.
Dining hall of the ship
The journey begins
After boarding the lunch was served. The large dining hall was divided into two parts. One for vegetarians, another for non vegetarians. The ship started moving slowly. In the evening different hue in the sky and its reflection on sea was a spectacular scene. Gradually when the night approached, I had an eerie feeling watching the endless dark where the ship was moving like an island.
After dinner I slept but my son did not want to sleep. He preferred to roam around the nook and corners of the ship. He was extremely happy. We did not feel any kind of sea sickness during our whole journey neither our fellow travelers.
Kalpeni
Next day I woke up at 4 AM. It was completely dark. I went out of the room and stood on the small balcony like deck beside our room. The ship was not moving. It anchored near Kalpeni. Small lights of Kalpeni was visible. There was only sound of the waves that struck the body of the ship.
I came back to my room and slept again. In the morning after morning tea/coffee we were carried to the island of Kalpeni by small boats. There green coconuts were served as welcome drink. After that we went for snorkeling and kayaking to another small island by boat.
Relaxation time at Kalpeni
Those who knew swimming snorkeled on their own and those who could not, SPORTS attendants helped them to see the variety of corals under the water. There were sea cucumbers in plenty and other creatures visible under the clear sea water. There were lots of corals everywhere lying here and there.
At noon we came back to the main island of Kalpeni and had our bath in fresh water. There lunch was arranged and served. After that there was a program of local tribal dance. Children enjoyed swinging in the hammocks. We all rested and chatted with each other introducing ourselves.
Kavaratti
In the evening we were taken back to the ship and the ship started to move. At midnight the ship reached Kavaratti and anchored. In the morning after tea/coffee we were taken to Kavaratti island. Kavaratti is the biggest island of the archipelago.
In Kavaratti, after breakfast, we had several activities arranged by SPORTS. We had a ride on glass bottom boat. It was an overwhelming experience to watch colorful fish and variety of colorful corals.
Kavaratti boat jetty
There was an arrangement for scuba diving also. My son went for scuba but at that time I did not get the courage to go for scuba for which I still regret.
We visited Marine aquariam and musium. There were different types shells and water animals and marine flora displayed for the tourist.
We had lunch with different fish items. There was also provision for vegetarians but that was meager in comparison to the non vegetarians. After lunch rooms were given to us for those who wanted to take rest.
In the afternoon we were taken to a local hosiery factory where we sold T-shirts printed ‘Lakshadweep’ and its photograph. I bought three T-shirts for my son.
Then we were taken to pickle factory outlet. Many of us bought Tuna pickle. It was very tasty, made of Tuna fish, lime, and spices.
Kalpeni
Experience of eating Tuna fish and sea weed desert
At night we were served fish curry in dinner along with other preparations. We could not recognize the fish while eating. But later a co-passenger informed us that they came back to the ship by the last boat and that fish came with them. It was a huge fish more than 4 feet long. There was also a desert made of sea weeds. It was like corn flour halwa without any color.
Sunset at Arabian sea.
Minikoy
Next day we reached Minikoy. Minikoy is the southernmost island of Lakshadweep. It seemed to me the most polpulous of them. This island has a very rich historical background.
We enjoyed Lava dance there. There were lagoons and tourists huts were made on the water. Here also we were taken by sea boat to see different types of corals. This island also had arrangements for different tourist activities. Some people enjoyed kayaking.
The natural beauty of the island was mesmerizing and I enjoyed sitting idle in front of the sea beach watching the different shades of blue and sea green. Many of us enjoyed bathing in the sea. Here also there was a large Tuna canning factory.
There was a package called Swaying Palm that only covers Minikoy. It seemed to me a very good package for honeymooners. There is a tourist cottage with few rooms for those who book that package.
Minicoy Seabeach
Back to the main land
The trip was about to end next day. We spent long time on the deck after dinner. The ship moved towards main land. Four days past like moments. Our scheduled arrival was at 10-30/11 AM, but the ship was late due to weather condition. She had to move against the wind and could not move in stipulated speed. So we were served our lunch. At last the ship reached the port at 1-30 PM.
The captain and the other members of the cruise were very congenial. The captain came and attended to us personally. He requested us to come again like other hosts of a family. My son and I enjoyed the trip extremely, and wish to go again when we shall have sufficient resources. The trip was expensive for middle class people like us.
How to go Lakshadweep
If someone wishes to go, I would suggest to book trips through the agents of SPORTS because it is more convenient and if the trip is cancelled it is easier to get a refund. The package starts from Kochin ( Kerala). There are different kind of packages.
One can arrange the trip on their own but it will be costlier than SPORTS packages. One has to get permit also as it is a restricted area.
It was 2015 July 15th, I boarded on Doon express, and settled down on my berth. The train started on time, everyone had their dinner and slept. I was pondering whether I was crazy. It thus happened that my GMVN package for Valley of Flowers, Hemkund Sahib and Badrinath had been cancelled due to natural calamity. I am always crazy about traveling. Once I make up my mind to go somewhere I become mad if it is cancelled and it was a long desire for me to visit Valley of flowers. So I decided to move on my own. I was a bit scared and skeptic if I should be able to manage it. A family of four with a kid was my co-passenger. The kid became a very good friend of mine. His parents were teachers of Woodstock school in Landour and his grandmother was also there. The day was well spent with them.
Pushpavati River
Valley of Flowers is in the state of Uttarakhand. It is also called Nandadevi National park, a world heritage site declared by UNESCO. It is a unique place in its character. Flowers bloom from the month of July-August and die out in Septemtember. From October to April the valley remains covered by snow. In the month of May snow melts and germination of the seed of flowers takes place. Gradually they start blooming again stage by stage, and this circle goes on.
Next early morning I got down from the train in Haridwar and asked a rickshaw puller to take me to the bus stand from where I could catch the bus for Joshimath. The rickshaw puller took me to the shared jeep stand instead of bus. He told the jeep driver that I wanted to go to Joshimath. I sat on a jeep and waited till it was filled up. On the way to Joshimath the leaf spring of the car broke 3 times, at the last phase the driver drove in such a reckless manner, that made me panicky, because he had to reach Joshimath before 6 o’clock in the evening. Ultimately it reached. I found the GMVN Tourist rest house, and lodged there. I was mentally as well as physically fatigued. After a shower and dinner I cried bitterly and prayed to God that it didn’t matter whether I could complete my tour, but I must reach home safely. God heard my prayer and not only I finished the tour safely, but also enjoyed everything to my heart’s content.
In the next morning when I reached Gobindghat. It was quite late as it took time to get the shared jeep filled up, but Providence was with me, so there was a pony owner, who could not get any customer, and was waiting with his two ponies. I waited for sometime so that he could get another customer, but none came. At last after a little bargain I agreed to pay for two ponies. When we reached Ghangharia it was 4pm. I settled in a hotel and asked the manager to arrange a porter cum guide for me to go to Valley of flowers. Next day I started early in the morning after breakfast for Valley of Flowers. The first phase was difficult to climb. But after reaching the valley it was a steady slope. I took many pictures but later got tired and enjoyed the beauty of nature only which was surreal. When I came back in the afternoon my legs were shaking but tear rolled down from my eyes with joy.
Next morning I went to Hemkund Sahib by pony. It is a famous Sikh pilgrimage. This road was tougher and steeper than Valley of flowers. There was a Gurudwara at Hemkund. The water of the lake was partly frozen though pilgrims were bathing in it. I visited the sacred lake and the Gurdwara, sat there for sometimes, then had food from langar and waited for the other two Sikh pilgrims who came with me on ponies. There was a temple of Lakshman behind the Gurdwara. Laksman Ganga flowed by its side. I visited that temple. When I came down to Ghangharia it was 1 pm. In front of my hotel I found the same pony owner who brought me to Ghangharia. He asked me if I wanted to go back. I asked him to wait for me a while. I packed my things and came out. I wanted to leave the place because mobile net work was not available there, and I was afraid that if any disaster happened again I should be trapped there, and my son would get terribly worried for me.
I came down to Gobindghat at 4pm. I stayed there that night. Next early morning I went to Badrinath by a jeep arranged by my hotel owner. I reached there early in the morning. Due to the spread of the news of natural calamity all tour packages of that area had been cancelled. So the temple was almost empty. I did “darshan” and watched “aarti” of the holy deity. I got the ambrosial “kheer prasad”. I offered “pind” to my late parents.
Badrinath Temple
After taking breakfast I decided to come back to Joshimath because it had been drizzling since last evening and I was expecting another landslide. So I came back to Joshi math. I was in the ninth cloud for the mission was successful and decided to spend the rest of the days in different places on the way back. I spent one day each in Auli, Karprayag, Rudraprayag and Rishikesh.
N.B. To reach Valley of Flowers one has to reach Haridwar. Buses, shared jeeps and hired taxis ply to Joshimath from Haridwar or one can go directly to Gobindghat by Haridwar- Badrinath or Hrishikesh- Badrinath buses. One has to walk or go by pony from Gobindghat To Ghangharia which is 12/14 kilometer distance. From Ghangharia Valley of Flowers is 7 kilometer trek. There is Hemkund Saheb too, which is a pilgrimage of Sikhs and a worth visiting place. One can avail pony to go there. It is a 10 kilometer trek.
Hemkund Sahib
Auli, an unplanned attempt.
After finishing my target of Valley of Flowers, Hemkund Saheb and Badrinath I found that I have 4 days extra in my hand. I booked a package of GMVN which had been cancelled due to a natural calamity, so I came out alone with my mission. As it was a package and there was always a chance for landslide during monsoon in the Himalayas, I kept 2 buffer days within my plan and as I had shortened my stay at Ghangharia and Badrinath I had another 2 days extra. Now I thought to utilize them. I came down to Joshimath at 12 noon. I inquired about Auli and whether it was possible to go by rope-way which was very famous due to its length. This cable car holds a record of the longest in Asia for covering total length of 4.15 km. I was informed by the counter that the cable car would run only at 3 pm because it was off season.
I kept my luggage under their custody and had my lunch. At 3-30 PM the cable car dropped me on tower number 8 as I wished to stay at GMVN tourist lodge. I got down from the tower and reached the point descending about 200 staircases from where the chair car plies for that tourist lodge. It was drizzling. The operator said that he could not run the chair car for a single traveler. He needed at least two. I was desperate, there was no other option for me except buying two tickets. The experience was unique, it was just like a dream where I was the queen of the place.
I reached the GMVN tourist lodge. None was there in the reception. I called if someone was there. One person came out and asked me to wait, and called the manager, who allotted me an economy room. The room was good and cozy with basic amenities of geyser, room heater, et cetera. I put the geyser on and removed the blanket from the bed to rest for a while before bathing. I found that the bed was wet at one part. I was going to call the attendant but saw that he himself was coming with another key.
He said that the manager had asked him to shift me to the super deluxe room beside the reception. I objected because I could not afford such a costly room. He comforted me saying that it didn’t matter. It was quite a luxury room. In the morning when I woke up it was raining, it was a rare moment of my experiences because I realized that the whole tourist lodge was within the cloud. I enjoyed every bit of moment in Auli, the memory is still fresh in my mind. It was cloudy so I could not get the view the Nandadevi peak.
After breakfast at around 10 o’clock the manger informed me to avail the chair car and to go to the tower number 8 to go back to Joshimath again. I went back to Joshimath and started for Karn Prayag.
N.B. Auli is accessible from Joshimath by car or by ropeway.
Benediction 